Showing posts with label Sikhs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sikhs. Show all posts

Tuesday, 17 March 2020

In the land of Waris Shah, Muslims protect Sikh heritage

"This is the land of Waris Shah. It yields nothing but love."

Lying with our eyes closed, within the cold walls and shadows of the shrine, we heard his voice for the first time. Sain, as he was called, was singing verses from Heer, the revered Punjabi poem of Waris Shah.

Heer akhdi jogia jhoth bolay, kon ruthray yaar mananda ei 
eisa koi na d itha mai dhoondh thaki, jera gaya nu morr liaonda ei 
(Heer says, O jogi! You tell lies; whom can unite separated lovers 
I have searched in vain but found none, who can bring back the departed)

As he sang in high notes, his voice resonated in the shrine, the dome and its surrounding — as if every soul present was remembering their own Heer. Amid the enchantment, a woman appeared. Making sure no one was watching, she diped her fingers in an extinguished charagh and placed them in her hair, a mark of submission to Waris Shah to plead for her beloved. 

The outer wall of the shrine read:
Waris shah mehboob nu tadon paiye 
jadon apna aap ganwaiye
(Waris Shah, the beloved can only be attained 
When one loses himself)

Taking the Hiran Minar exit from the Lahore-Islamabad motorway, one notices signboards reading pre-Partition names of villages — Lel Virkan, Noshehra Virkan and Buddha Goraya — that continue to exist after more than 70 years.

Our destination was Jandiala, meaning 'forest' in Punjabi. This is the Jandiala Sher Khan where Waris Shah was born and Heer was immortalised — and where now stands the shrine of Waris Shah, as lovers and newly-weds visit from all corners to seek his blessings. Ours was a visit to explore the heritage sites around Gujranwala and to fulfill our pledge to start the journey by offering gratitude to Waris Shah.

After doing that, we set off to explore the pre-Partition heritage of the area. While visiting various sites, a marble structure emerged from amongst the trees after a sharp road turn. Seemingly unrelated to the adjacent mosque, the white edifice unfolded its enchanting glory as we moved closer.

Encircled by houses, the entrance to the building was hard to find until a man approached us and inquired about our intentions. Discovering our past affiliation with newspapers and keen interest in the site, Rashid agreed to show us around.

“Ye sikhon ki masjid hai” (This is the mosque of Sikhs), he told us. “We clean it and show it to Sikh pilgrims who visit.”

Rashid was born amongst hundreds of families who came from India after Partition and settled in this region. Hardly remembering his ancestral village, to him Ambala was what he had heard it was from his mother.

“This place is similar to the mosques we left behind in our villages. It gave us shelter and is very important to us,” he said as he opened the main door.

The facade had prominent inscriptions written in Hindi that we failed to decipher. It is when we Googled it that we came to know that this beautiful structure was actually a gurdwara known as Kharasahab or Gurdwara Mattu Bhaike.

It was an important pre-Partition gurdwara established by local affluent Sikhs after 1940 in honour of Guru Hargobind Singh, the sixth Guru, who while passing by this place showed annoyance to tobacco and asked his followers to avoid it.

This instruction later transcended into a weighty hukam (ruling) of Sikhism, “jagat jootth tambaakoo bikhiaa da tiaag karnaa” (Discard worldly ways, falsehoods and poisonous tobacco).
The tomb of Waris Shah. 

It was during the reign of Ranjit Singh that Sikhs became influential and consolidated prominent places of worship all over Punjab. Mattu Bhaike, Nowshehra Virkan and the adjacent areas were inhabited by Sikhs who migrated after Partition, leaving their buildings at the mercy of migrants and locals who, in many cases, destroyed the structures and replaced them with residential quarters.

The anterior of the gurdwara was striking — with marble, stone and glass works and beautiful wooden engravings on the doors. It had a samadhi (tomb) whose stucco work and paintings had warped with time. It used to have an idol as well, Rashid told us.

Despite being muddy from the outside, the interior of the building was in decent condition. It consisted of a big, tiled hall on the ground floor that had been used for different religious rituals. The surrounding wooden windows were clogged with dust as if they hadn’t been touched since its occupants left.

There were four entrance doors to the ground floor. On the extreme right were stairs going up. At the top was a small room and a dome with magnificent paintwork. The view of lush green fields from there was heavenly.
The samadhi.

It looked like the site was regularly taken care of since nothing had been destroyed or looted. I was informed that it belongs to the Mattu clan who still lives here.

Searching for answers, we went to the Mattu Bhaike village. Not many were interested in talking about Sikhs and their gurdwara. But finally, Ijaz agreed to answer some questions.

Ijaz, in his late 40s, lived next to the gurdwara. “We have been living here for centuries,” he said, while showing us some old documents, including his lineage. “Our ancestors were Sikhs. Later, my great grandparents converted to Islam.” Yet, his cousins remained Sikh.

“Everyone was living peacefully when Partition happened. We decided to stay, but riots erupted in the neighbouring villages and so the Mattu family decided to shift their Sikh cousins and family across the border, while their homes and flocks were put in our custody until they returned.

"However, no one returned. People who witnessed Partition recall the night of the departure like it happened yesterday. The sadness still engulfs every living soul here,” Ijaz recounted as he looked towards the gurdwara.

“My grandfather used to show me the house keys given to him by his friend Inderjeet wrapped in his mother’s shawl, whom they both called bayjee. He was so protective of it that he did not let us so much as touch the house during his lifetime,” he told us.

We asked him about the destruction of Sikh and Hindu heritage sites after Partition and the Babri Mosque incident. Ijaz replied: “The gurdwara has the graves of our forefathers. Some people tried to destroy it in 1992, but the whole village came out to protect it.”

He added, “Mattus are Sikhs and Muslims. We have family across the border who are desperate to see their ancestral village. The pilgrims visited in 1960s for the first time and the entire village welcomed them with food. My grandfather said that Sikhs are his uncles and nephews; our hearts and houses are always open for them. They might be Indians but this is their land.”

“He also used to say to all of us, 'this is the land of Waris Shah. It yields nothing but love'”, Ijaz said with a smile.

For people in the subcontinent, Partition epitomises loss not just of territory, but also of identity. However, there are places like Mattu Bhaike where people refused to let go of their identity and affection towards each other.

Last month, as a goodwill motion, Pakistan handed over the Gurdwara Kharasahab to the Sikh community. With steps like these, including the opening of Kartarpur Corridor, people might finally be able to meet their Heer they have been longing for.

(Source: Dawn)

Monday, 13 January 2020

Sikh Woman Cancels India Trip To Feed Australian Bushfire Victims, Cooks 1000 Meals A Day

As the Australian bushfires continue to ravage the wildlife habitat of the country, many people have come in support of the victims of the natural calamity. Like the teenagers who rescued 20 koalas from Kangaroo Island to the Indian restaurant which served free meals to people affected by the bushfires, to even those who dived right into flaming forests to save koalas from burning.

Adding to the list is this Sikh woman who cancelled her trip back to India after 10 years to cook meals for the Australian bushfire victims, reports Daily Mail.

35-year-old Sukhwinder Kaur, who lives in Melbourne, was all set to come back to India after receiving news of her sister suffering a stroke. However, she decided to stay back in Melbourne and now cooks more than 1,000 meals a day for families who were forced to flee after their houses were set ablaze. These houses were in East Gippsland which were destroyed by the fires.

“I realised my first duty is towards the community here where I have lived for so long. If I had left the people here during such a difficult time, I don’t think I could call myself a good human being,” Sukhwinder said.

She was been working since New Year’s Eve from morning to midnight. In fact, Sukhwinder stays in a room just beside the kitchen so that she can get to work right after she wakes up.

“This is my family too and I have a responsibility towards it. I just can’t go while my family is suffering,” Sukhwinder said.
“I feel particularly happy when I see that no food is wasted and all of it is used up in the community,” she added.

Sikh Volunteers Australia took to Facebook to appreciate the efforts of Sukhwinder. They wrote:
“No words can describe the dedication of our lovely hard-working CHEF Sukhwinder Kaur who is working continuously from last 5 days in bush fire affected area Gippsland region Bairnsdale. She is preparing food 3 times a day around 400 meals.”

While we as humans cannot stop the bushfires, we can at least join hands to help those who are suffering due to it. We applaud this woman for her grit to do what is right!


(Source: Storypick)

Friday, 22 November 2019

On the trail of Guru Nanak Dev’s travels from Tibet to Iran

Tracing Guru Nanak’s footsteps across nine countries and over 150 inter-faith sites, writer Amardeep Singh finds anew the relevance of universality preached by the first Sikh guru.

In Afghanistan, holding an AK47, the “iron lady” Khalida shows the remains of the gurdwara shelled by the Taliban during the civil war (1996-2001). Later, she opens her home for a vegetarian lunch and shares memories of growing up with the Nanakpanthis of Khost, all of whom have now left the country. In Kandahar, against all odds, Dr Raghunath, a Nanakpanthi Hindu, hasn’t left the war-torn country, as it had provided him the education to become a doctor.

In Colombo, Sri Lanka, it isn’t only Sikhs, Hindus and Sindhis, but also the local Sinhalese Christians who delve into the teachings of Baba Nanak through a syncretic form of worship. On the banks of the river Indus in Pakistan, a young man plays a Pashto song on the rabab, the string instrument carried by Bhai Mardana on his lifelong journey with Guru Nanak. Till date in Pakistan, the descendants of Mardana — Muslim by faith — sing hymns of Nanak from the Guru Granth Sahib.

These are just a few of the incredible stories collected by Singapore-based researcher, author and documentary filmmaker, Amardeep Singh, 52, and his team over the last several months, as they followed the trail of Guru Nanak’s travels in the 15th and 16th century.
One world, One sky: Mount Kailash in Tibet, where Nanak had travelled to.

Until 1849, the Sikh Empire was a mighty force. In fact, Lahore Durbar was the last to be conquered by the East India Company. However, over time, and particularly following the ethnic violence and geographic divisions that ensued during Partition, 80 per cent of that land now falls in Pakistan, rendering it inaccessible to many and turning the followers of the faith into a religious minority. In 2014, after having worked in the corporate world for 25 years, Singh travelled to Pakistan for the first time. Having lost both his parents to age, he craved to see the homeland they had left in 1947 — his mother from Abbottabad, and father from Muzaffarabad. Coupled with familial longing was the desire to delve deeper into the history of the Sikh community.

“Much of this legacy remains unremembered. After the exodus of ’47, centuries of historic and material remnants, archaeological and architectural feats, interfaith aspects and traditions were forgotten virtually overnight. There were no texts, no documentation on what had been left behind. Why had my community been silent? How had there been no efforts to preserve this legacy for posterity?” he asks.

So, armed with a 30-day visa, he visited 36 cities and villages, from Muzzafarabad to Multan, from Jamrud to Lahore, which led to his debut book, Lost Heritage: The Sikh Legacy in Pakistan (2016). In 2017, he returned to trace the remnants of the 27 forts built along the river Indus during the Sikh Empire, many of which are controlled by the Pakistani army today. This second trip, spanning 55 days and 90 additional cities, culminated in a second book, The Quest Continues: Lost Heritage: The Sikh Legacy in Pakistan (2018).

As Singh explored the nuances and diversity of Pakistan, he happened to notice the syncretic nature of people living along the Indus, who, regardless of religion, considered themselves Nanakpanthis — followers of Guru Nanak, the founder of Sikhism. From Pashto Sikhs who wore turbans, to the turban-less Sehajdhari Sikhs, Udasis, Jogis, Sindhis and even Hindus, these Nanakpanthis have multifarious identities, yet their beliefs and practices cannot be cordoned off by the modern signifiers of Sikhism or Hinduism.

Thus, he conceived of the idea to trace the footsteps of Baba Nanak, not merely in India or Pakistan, but across the many countries, Guru Nanak travelled with Bhai Mardana, preaching the message of Monism — where everything is one, where we are all one. Illuminating this idea further, Singh recites Kabir’s words, which resonates time and again in the Granth Sahib, “Khaalik khalak khalak mein khaalik (the Creation is in the Creator, and the Creator is in the Creation.)” Which is why the upcoming inauguration of the Kartarpur Corridor later this month, that will connect Dera Baba Nanak Sahib in India’s Punjab and Gurdwara Darbar Sahib in Pakistan, fills him with hope.

Allegory — as his ambitious project is titled — signifying the revelation of a hidden meaning — will be the first multi-episode documentary to chronicle the vast expanse of sites that were visited by the saint. “In the borderless world of the 15th century, where people travelled distances to trade and rulers invaded to expand territory, Guru Nanak glided across the geographies advocating the message of peace,” says Singh.

During his travels, he covered a landscape comprising nine modern nations — Sri Lanka, Iran, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Tibet (China), Iraq, Saudi Arabia, Bangladesh, India — visiting numerous Islamic, Sufi, Buddhist and Hindu sites. Between the 15th and16th century, the universal narratives of Guru Nanak’s travels were rendered solely through oral narratives. In the 17th century, these were documented in the form of books called Janamsakhis, written by men of faith. It gave rise to a diverse canvas of storytelling, travelogue and hagiography. But today, even these are forgotten, and, alongside the deeply entrenched division of land and nationality, many of the sites have been rendered inaccessible.

On January 11 this year, Singh and his team’s journey officially began in Sri Lanka. They then traversed across Iran, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Tibet, Iraq, Saudi Arabia and Bangladesh, from where they will conclude the filming in India. As the world celebrates the 550th birth anniversary of Guru Nanak on November 12, the team persists with their effort of travelling to over 150 interfaith sites visited by Nanak across the world; Allegory will release only in 2021.

As Singh describes the Herculean task that his team has set out to complete, there is a sense of purpose in his voice. The need to undertake this journey extends far beyond any personal ambition and is led by the idea of preserving an ideology that perceives no borderlands or divisions. With the aid of the oldest set of Janamsakhis, written half a century after Nanak’s death in 1539, along with drawing from history, archaeology, the team has followed the trails of sites of various faiths visited by the saint.

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They have travelled from Mecca to Mount Kailash, filming under the shelling of gunfire in Afghanistan and the scalding summer heat in Iraq; across the waters of river Sindh on boat, and the desert expanse of Medina to Baghdad on foot. They have gone from the mausoleum of Bahauddin Zakariya in Multan to the Hinglaj Nani Mandir Caves in Balochistan; from Baba Farid’s grave at Pakpattan, Pakistan, where during his visit, Guru Nanak collected the verses of Baba Farid, later enshrined in the Guru Granth Sahib, to the congruent region of Para Chinar, which stands between Pakistan and Afghanistan.

Approximately 70 per cent of this landscape today falls in conflict zones and unreachable geographies. In a world where visa constraints, nationalist mandates and geographic divisions are often successful in restricting scholarship, Singh has remained not just fortuitous in his access to the remotest sites, but pleasantly borderless in his efforts as well as company. In many ways, his journey, embarked upon five centuries after Nanak, emulates the essence of diversity preached by the saint — “Tohi mohi, mohi tohi, antar kaisa? (You are me, I am you, what is the difference?)” Apart from himself and his wife Nicky, both Sikh, Singh’s team has Muslim colleagues from Lahore, Hindus and Sikhs from India, as well as local translators and well-wishers.

Singh doesn’t need to think when asked what the largest takeaway has been from the project. “Every step we took has resulted in the dissipation of our own conditioning. We shed, we unlearn, and we relearn. Guru Nanak saw no nationality, caste, religion or language; he knew only humanity. There is a need for the younger generation — those growing up in the shadow of all forms of tangible and intangible conflict and othering — to understand why Nanak spent nearly three decades of his life spreading the message of universal brotherhood,” he says.

He tells me that he, a turbaned Sikh, has never had to compromise his identity for the work, and yet each day, he is somehow renewed by encounters with the people he meets and the spaces he travels to. “In the making of Allegory across eight countries till date, I have been renamed twice. From ‘Amardeep Singh’, I became ‘Amiruddin’ in Afganistan and ‘Haji Omardip Sing’ in Iraq! Each and every day, the relevance of Nanak’s five-century-old journey becomes more and more pronounced as we find ourselves within a complex, collective history that has not been expunged by lifetimes or borders,” he says.

(Source: The Indian Express)

Wednesday, 26 December 2018

The ghosts of Mrs Gandhi: Amitav Ghosh looks back at the 1984 massacre of Sikhs

‘I witnessed the risks that perfectly ordinary people were willing to take for one another,’ the author wrote in this essay from 1995.

Nowhere else in the world did the year 1984 fulfill its apocalyptic portents as it did in India. Separatist violence in the Punjab, the military attack on the great Sikh temple of Amritsar; the assassination of the Prime Minister, Mrs Indira Gandhi; riots in several cities; the gas disaster in Bhopal – the events followed relentlessly on each other. There were days in 1984 when it took courage to open the New Delhi papers in the morning.

Of the year’s many catastrophes, the sectarian violence following Mrs Gandhi’s death had the greatest effect on my life. Looking back, I see that the experiences of that period were profoundly important to my development as a writer; so much so that I have never attempted to write about them until now.

HT Photo

At that time, I was living in a part of New Delhi called Defence Colony – a neighborhood of large, labyrinthine houses, with little self-contained warrens of servants’ rooms tucked away on roof-tops and above garages. When I lived there, those rooms had come to house a floating population of the young and straitened journalists, copywriters, minor executives, and university people like myself. We battened upon this wealthy enclave like mites in a honeycomb, spreading from rooftop to rooftop. Our ramshackle lives curtailed from our landlords of chiffon-draped washing lines and thickets of TV serials.

I was 28. The city I considered home was Calcutta, but New Delhi was where I had spent all my adult life except for a few years in England and Egypt. I had returned to India two years before, upon completing a doctorate at Oxford, and recently found a teaching job at Delhi University. But it was in the privacy of my baking rooftop hutch that my real life was lived. I was writing my first novel, in the classic fashion, perched in garret.

On the morning of October 31, the day of Mrs. Gandhi’s death, I caught a bus to Delhi University, as usual, at about half past nine. From where I lived, it took an hour and half; a long commute, but not an exceptional one for New Delhi. The assassination had occurred shortly before, just a few miles away, but I had no knowledge of this when I boarded the bus. Nor did I notice anything untoward at any point during the ninety-minute journey. But the news, traveling by word of mouth, raced my bus to the university.

When I walked into the grounds, I saw not the usual boisterous, Frisbee-throwing crowd of students but a small group of people standing intently around a transistor radio. A young man detached himself from one of the huddles and approached me, his mouth twisted into a light tipped, knowing smile that seems always to accompany the gambit, “Have you heard...?”

The campus was humming, he said. No one knew for sure, but it was being said that Mrs. Gandhi had been shot. The word was that she had been assassinated by two Sikh bodyguards, in revenge for her having sent troops to raid the Sikhs’ Golden Temple in Amritsar earlier that year.

Just before stepping into the lecture room, I heard a report on All India Radio, the national network: Mrs. Gandhi had been rushed to hospital after her attempted assassinations.

Nothing stopped: the momentum of the daily routine carried things forward. I went into a classroom and began my lecture, but not many students had shown up and those who had were distracted and distant; there was a lot of fidgeting.

Indira Gandhi. Credit: INC
Halfway through the class, I looked out through the room’s single, slit-like window. The sunlight lay bright on the lawn below and on the trees beyond. It was the time of year when Delhi was at its best, crisp and cool. Its abundant greenery freshly watered by the recently retreated monsoons, its skies washed sparkling clean. By the time I turned back, I had forgotten what I was saying and had to reach for my notes.

My unsteadiness surprised me. I was not an uncritical admirer of Mrs. Gandhi. Her brief period of semi-dictatorial rule in the mid-seventies was still alive in my memory. But the ghastliness of her sudden murder was a reminder of the very real qualities that had been taken for granted: her fortitude, her dignity, her physical courage, her endurance. Yet it was just not grief I felt at the moment. Rather, it was a sense of something loose, of a mooring coming untied somewhat within.

The first reliable report of Mrs. Gandhi’s death was broadcast from Karachi, by Pakistan, at around 1.30 pm. On All India Radio regular broadcast had been replaced by music.

I left the university in the late afternoon with a friend, Hari Sen, who lived at the other end of the city. I needed to make a long-distance call, and he had offered to let me use his family telephone.

To get to Hari’s house we had to change buses at Connaught Place, that elegant circular arcade that lies at the geographical heart of Delhi, linking the old city with the new. As the bus swung around the periphery of the arcade, I noticed that the shops, stalls, and eateries were beginning to shut down, even though it was still afternoon.

Our next bus was not quite full, which was unusual. Just as it was pulling out, a man ran out of the office and jumped on. He was middle-aged and dressed in shirt and trousers, evidently an employee in one of the government buildings. He was a Sikh, but I scarcely noticed this at the time.

He probably jumped on without giving the matter any thought, this being his regular, daily bus. But, as it happened, on this day no choice could have been more unfortunate, for the route of the bus went past the hospital where Indira Gandhi’s body then lay. Certain loyalists in her party had begun inciting the crowds gathered there to seek revenge. The motorcade of Giani Zail Singh, the President of the Republic, a Sikh, had already been attacked by a mob.

None of this was known to us then, and we would never have suspected it: violence had never been directed at the Sikhs in Delhi.

As the bus made its way down New Delhi’s broad, tree-lined avenues, official-looking cars, with outriders and escorts, overtook us, speeding toward the hospital. As we drew nearer, it became evident that a large number of people had gathered there. But this was no ordinary crowd: it seemed to consist of red-eyed young men in half-buttoned shirts. It was now that I noticed that my Sikh fellow-passenger was showing signs of anxiety, sometimes standing up to look out, sometimes glancing out the door. It was too late to get off the bus; thugs were everywhere.

The bands of young men grew more and more menacing as we approached the hospital. There was a watchfulness about them; some were armed with steel rods and bicycle chains; others had fanned out across the busy road and were stopping cars and buses.

A stout woman in sari sitting across aisle from me was the first to understand what was going on. Rising to her feet, she gestured urgently at the Sikh, who was sitting hunched in his seat. She hissed at him in Hindi, telling him to get down and keep out of sight.

The man started in surprise and squeezed himself into the narrow footspace between the seats. Minutes later, our bus was intercepted by a group of young men dressed in bright, sharp synthetics. Several had bicycle chains wrapped around their wrists. They ran along beside the bus as it slowed to a halt. We heard them call out to the driver through the open door, asking if there were any Sikhs in the bus.

The driver shook his head. No, he said, there were no Sikhs in the bus.

A few rows ahead of me, the crouching turbaned figure had gone completely still.

Outside, some of the young men were jumping up to look through the windows, asking if there were any Sikhs in the bus. There was no anger in their voices; that was the most chilling thing of all.

No, someone said, and immediately other voices picked up the refrain. Soon all the passengers were shaking their heads and saying, no, no, let us go now, we have to get home.

Eventually, the thugs stepped back and waved us through.

Nobody said a word as we sped away down Ring Road.


Hari Sen lived in one of New Delhi’s recently developed residential colonies. It was called Safdarjang Enclave, and it was neatly and solidly middle-class, a neighborhood of aspirations rather than opulence. Like most such suburbs, the area had a mixed population: Sikhs were well represented.

A long street ran from end to end of the neighborhood, like the spine of a comb, with parallel side streets running off it. Hari lived at the end of one of those streets, in a fairly typical, big, one-storey bunglow. The house next door, however, was much grander and uncharacteristically daring in design. An angular structure, it was perched rakishly on stilts. Mr. Bawa, the owner, was an elderly Sikh who had spent a long time abroad, working with various international organisations. For several years, he had resided in Southeast Asia; thus the stilts.

Hari lived with his family in a household so large and eccentric that it had come to be known among his friends as Macondo, after Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s magical village. On this occasion, however, only his mother and teenage sister were at home. I decided to stay over.

It was a bright morning. When I stepped into the sunshine, I came upon a sight that I could never have imagined. In every direction, columns of smoke rose slowly into a limpid sky. Sikh houses and businesses were burning. The fires were so carefully targeted that they created an effect quite different from that of a general conflagration: it was like looking upward into the vault of some vast pillared hall.

The columns of smoke increased in number even as I stood outside watching. Some fires were burning a short distance away. I spoke to a passerby and learned that several nearby Sikh houses had been looted and set on fire that morning. The mob had started at the far end of the colony and was working its way in our direction. Hindus or Muslims who had sheltered Sikhs were also being attacked; their houses too were being looted and burned.

It was still and quite, eerily so. The usual sounds of rush-hour traffic were absent. But every so often we heard a speeding car or a motorcycle on the main street. Later, we discovered that these mysterious speeding vehicles were instrumental in directing the carnage that was taking place. Protected by certain politicians, “organisers” were zooming around the city, assembling the mobs and transporting them to Sikh-owned houses and shops.

Apparently, the transportation was provided free. A civil-rights report published shortly afterward stated that this phase of violence “began with the arrival of groups of armed people in tempo vans, scooters, motorcycles or trucks,” and went on to say,

With cans of petrol they went around the localities and systematically set fire to Sikh-houses, shops and Gurdwaras...the targets were primarily young Sikhs. They were dragged out, beaten up and then burned alive...In all the affected spots, a calculated attempt to terrorize the people was evident in the common tendency among the assailants to burn alive Sikhs on public roads.

Fire was everywhere; it was the day’s motif. Throughout the city, Sikh houses were being looted and then set on fire, often with their occupants still inside.

A survivor – a woman who lost her husband and three sons – offered the following account to Veena Das, a Delhi sociologist:

Some people, the neighbors, one of my relatives, said it would be better if we hid in an abandoned house nearby. So my husband took our three sons and hid there. We locked the house from outside, but there was treachery in people’s hearts. Someone must have told the crowd. They baited him to come out. Then they poured kerosene on that house. They burnt them alive. When I went there that night, the bodies of my sons were on the loft – huddled together.

The devastation in the East Delhi neighbourhood of Trilokpur. Credit: HT Photo
Over the next few days, some 2,500 people died in Delhi alone. Thousands more died in other cities. The total death toll will never be known. The dead were overwhelmingly Sikh men. Entire neighborhoods were gutted; tens of thousands of people were left homeless.

Like many other members of my generation, I grew up believing that mass slaughter of the kind that accompanied the Partition of India and Pakistan, in 1947, could never happen again. But that morning in the city of Delhi, the violence had reached the same level of intensity.

As Hari and I stood staring into the smoke-streaked sky, Mrs. Sen, Hari’s mother, was thinking of matters closer at hand. She was about 50, a tall, graceful woman with a gentle, soft-spoken manner. In an understated way, she was also deeply religious, a devout Hindu. When she heard what was happening, she picked up the phone and called Mr. and Mrs. Bawa, the elderly Sikh couple next door, to let them know that they were welcome to come over. She met with unexpected response: an awkward silence. Mrs. Bawa thought she was joking, and wasn’t sure whether to be amused or not.

Toward midday, Mrs. Sen received a phone call: the mob was now in the immediate neighborhood, advancing systematically from street to street. Hari decided that it was time to go over and have a talk with the Bawas. I went along.

Mr. Bawa proved to be small, slight man. Although he was casually dressed, his turban was neatly tied and his beard was carefully combed and bound. He was puzzled by our visit. After a polite greeting, he asked what he could do for us. It fell to Hari to explain.

Mr. Bawa had heard about Indira’s assassination, of course, and he knew there had been some trouble. But he could not understand why these “disturbances” should impinge on him or his wife. He had no more sympathy for Sikh terrorists than we did; his revulsion at the assassination was, if anything, even greater than ours. Not only was his commitment to India and the Indian state absolute but it was evident from his bearing that he belonged to the country’s ruling elite.

How do you explain to someone who has spent a lifetime cocooned in privilege that a potentially terminal rent has appeared in the wrappings? We found ourselves faltering. Mr. Bawa could not bring himself to believe that a mob might attack him.

By the time we left, it was Mr. Bawa who was mouthing reassurances. He sent us off with jovial pats on our backs. He did not actually say “Buck up”, but his manner said it for him.

We were confident that the government would soon act to stop the violence. In India, there is a drill associated with civil disturbances: a curfew is declared; paramilitary units are deployed; in extreme cases the army marches to the stricken areas. No city in India is better equipped to perform this drill than New Delhi, with its huge security apparatus. We learned later that in some cities – Calcutta, for example, the state authorities did act promptly to prevent violence. But in New Delhi – and much of North India – hours followed without a response.

Every few minutes we turned to the radio, hoping to hear that the Army had been ordered out. All we heard was mournful music and descriptions of Mrs. Gandhi’s lying in state; of coming and goings of dignitaries, foreign and national. The bulletins could have been message from another planet.

As the afternoon progressed, we continued to hear reports of the mob’s steady advance. Before long, it had reached the next alley: we could hear the voices; the smoke was everywhere. There was still no sign of Army or police.

Hari again called Mr. Bawa, and now the flames visible from his windows, he was more receptive. He agreed to come over with his wife, just for a short while. But there was a problem: How? The two properties were separated by a shoulder -high wall, so it was impossible to walk from one house to the other except along the street.

I spotted a few thugs already at the end of the street. We could hear the occasional motorcycle, cruising slowly up and down. The Bawas could not risk stepping out in the street. They would be seen: the sun had dipped low in the sky, but it was still light. Mr. Bawa balked at the thought of climbing over the wall: it seemed an inseparable obstacle at his age. But eventually Hari persuaded him to try.

We went to wait for them at the back of the Sen’s house – in a spot that was well-sheltered from the street. The mob seemed terrifyingly close, the Bawas reckless in their tardiness. A long time appeared before the elderly couple finally appeared, hurrying towards us.

Mr. Bawa had changed before leaving the house: he was neatly dressed, dapper, even a blazer and cravat. Mrs. Bawa dressed in salwar and kameez. Their cook was with them, and it was with his assistance that they made it over the wall. The cook, who was Hindu, then returned to the house to stand guard.

Hari led the Bawas into the drawing room, where Mrs. Sen was waiting dressed in chiffon sari. The room was large and well appointed, its walls hung with a rare and beautiful set of miniatures. With the curtains now drawn and the lamps lit, it was warm and welcoming. But all that lay between us and the mob in the street was a row of curtained French windows and a garden wall.

Mrs. Sen greeted the elderly couple with folded hands as they came in. The three seated themselves in the intimate circle, and soon a silver tea tray appeared. Instantly, all constraint evaporated, and, to the tinkling of porcelain, the conversation turned to the staples of New Delhi drawing-room chatter.

I could not bring myself to sit down. I stood in the corridor, distracted, looking outside through the front entrance.

A couple of scouts on motorcycles had drawn up next door. They had dismounted and were inspecting the house, walking in among the concrete stilts, looking up into the house. Somehow, they got wind of the cook’s presence and called him out.

The cook was very frightened. He was surrounded by thugs thrusting knives in his face and shouting questions. It was dark, and some were carrying kerosene torches. Wasn’t it true, they shouted, that his employers were Sikhs.

Where were they? Were they hiding inside? Who owned the house – Hindus or Sikhs? Hari and I hid behind the wall and listened to the interrogation. Our fates depended on this lone, frightened man. We had no idea what he would do: of how secure the Bawas were of his loyalties, or whether he might seek revenge for some past slight by revealing their whereabouts. If he did; both houses would burn.

Although stuttering in terror, the cook held his own. Yes, he said, yes, his employers were Sikhs but they had left town: there was no one in the house. No, the house didn’t belong to them; they were renting from a Hindu.

He succeeded in persuading most of the thugs, but a few eyed the surrounding houses suspiciously. Some appeared at the steel gates in front of us, rattling the bars.

We went up and positioned ourselves at the gates. I remember a strange sense of disconnection as I walked down the driveway, as though I was watching myself from somewhere very distant.

We took hold of the gates and shouted back: Get away! You have no business here. There’s no one inside! The house is empty!

To my surprise, they began to drift away, one by one. Just before this, I had stepped into the house to see how Mrs. Sen and the Bawas were faring. The thugs were clearly audible in the lamplit drawing room; only a thin curtain shielded the interior from their view.

My memory of what I saw in the drawing room is uncannily vivid. Mrs. Sen had a slight smile on her face as she poured a cup of tea for Mr. Bawa. Beside her, Mrs. Bawa, in a firm, unwavering voice, was comparing the domestic-help situations in New Delhi and Manila.

I was awed by their courage.

The scene from the East Delhi neighbourhood of Trilokpuri. Credit: HT Photo
The next morning, I heard about a protest that was being organised at the large compound of a relief agency. When I arrived, a meeting was already underway, a gathering of seventy or eighty people.

The mood was somber. Some of the people spoke of neighborhoods that had been taken over by vengeful mobs. They described countless murders - mainly by setting the victims alight - as well as terrible destruction: the burning of Sikh temples, the looting of Sikh schools, the razing of Sikh homes and shops. The violence was worse than I had imagined. It was decided that the most effective initial tactic would be to march into one of the badly affected neighborhoods and confront the rioters directly.

The group had grown to a hundred and fifty men and women, among them Swami Agnivesh, a Hindu ascetic; Ravi Chopra, a scientist and environmentalist; and a handful of opposition politicians, including Chandra Shekhar, who became prime minister for a brief period several years later.

The group was pitifully small by the standards of a city where crowds of several hundred thousand were routinely mustered for political rallies. Nevertheless the members rose to their feet and began to march.

Years before, I had read a passage by V.S. Naipaul, which had stayed with me ever since. I have never been able to find it again, so this account is from memory. In his incomparable prose Naipaul describes a demonstration. He is in a hotel room, somewhere in Africa or South America; he looks down and see people marching past. To his surprise, the sight fills him with an obscure longing, a kind of melancholy, he is aware of a wish to go out, to join, to merge his concerns with theirs. Yet he knows he never will; it is simply not in his nature to join crowds.

For many years, I read everything of Naipaul’s I could lay my hands on; I couldn’t have enough of him. I read him with the intimate, appalled attention that one reserves for one’s most skillful interlocutors. It was he who first made it possible for me to think of myself as a writer, working in English.

I remembered the passage because I believed that I, too, was not a joiner, and in Naipaul’s pitiless mirror I thought I had seen an aspect of myself rendered visible. Yet as this forlorn little group marched out of the shelter of the compound I did not hesitate for a moment: without a second thought, I joined.

The march headed first to Lajpat Nagar, a busy commercial area a mile or so away. I knew the area. Though it was in New Delhi, its streets resembled the older parts of the city, where small cramped shops tended to spill out into the footpaths.

We were shouting slogans as we marched: hoary Gandhian staples of peace and brotherhood from half a century before. Then, suddenly, we were confronted with a starkly familiar spectacle, an image of twentieth century urban horror: burned-out cars, their ransacked interiors visible through smashed windows; debris and rubble everywhere. Blackened pots had been strewn along the street. A cinema had been gutted, and the charred faces of film stars stared out at us from half-burned posters.

As I think back to that march, my memory breaks down, details dissolve. I recently telephoned some friends who had been there. There memories are similar to mine in only one respect; they, too, clung to one scene while successfully ridding their minds of the rest.

The scene my memory preserved is of a moment when it seemed inevitable that we would be attacked.

Rounding a corner, we found ourselves facing a crowd that was larger and more determined-looking that any other crowds that we had encountered. On each previous occasion, we had prevailed by marching at the thugs and engaging them directly, in dialogues that turned quickly into extended shouting matches. In every instance, we had succeeded in facing them down. But this particular mob was intent on confrontation. As its members advanced on us, brandishing knives and steel rods, we stopped. Our voices grew louder as they came towards us; a kind of rapture descended on us, exhilaration in anticipation of a climax. We braced for the attack, leaning forward as though into a wind.

And then something happened that I have never completely understood. Nothing was said; there was no signal, nor was there any break in the rhythm of our chanting. But suddenly all women in our group and the women made up more than half of the group’s numbers – stepped out and surrounded the men; their saris and kameezes became a thin, fluttering barrier, a wall around us. They turned to face the approaching men, challenging them, daring them to attack.

The thugs took a few more steps toward us and then faltered, confused. A moment later, they were gone.

The march ended at the walled compound where it had started. In the next couple of hours, an organisation was created, the Nagrik Ekta Manch, or Citizen’s Unity Front, and its work - to bring relief to the injured and the bereft, to shelter the homeless – began the next morning. Food and clothing were needed, and camps had to be established to accommodate the thousands of people with nowhere to sleep. And by the next day we were overwhelmed – literally. The large compound was crowded with vanloads of blankets, secondhand clothing, shoes and sacks of flour, sugar and tea. Previously hard-nosed unsentimental businessmen sent cars and trucks. There was barely room to move.

A refugee camp in Delhi. Credit: HT Photo
My own role in the Front was slight. For a few weeks, I worked with a team from Delhi University, distributing supplies in the slums and working-class neighborhoods that had been worst hit by the rioting. Then I returned to my desk.

In time, inevitably, most of the Front’s volunteers returned to their everyday lives. But some members – most notably the women involved in the running of refugee camps –continued to work for years afterward with Sikh women and children who had been rendered homeless. Jaya Jaitley, Lalita Ramdas, Veena Das, Mita Bose, Radha Kumar: these women, each one an accomplished professional, gave up years of their time to repair the enormous damage that had been done in a matter of two or three days.

The Front also formed a team to investigate the riots. I briefly considered joining, but then decided that an investigation would be a waste of time because the politicians capable of inciting violence were unlikely to heed a tiny group of concerned citizens.

I was wrong. A document eventually produced by this team – a slim pamphlet entitled Who Are the Guilty – has become a classic, a searing indictment of the politicians who encouraged the riots and the police who allowed the rioters to have their way.

Over the years the Indian government has compensated some of the survivors of the 1984 violence and resettled some of the homeless. One gap remains: to this day, no instigator of the riots has been charged. But the pressure on the government has never gone away, and it continues to grow: every year, the nails hammered in by that slim document dig just a little deeper.

That pamphlet and others that followed are testaments to the only humane possibility available to people who live in multi-ethnic, multi-religious societies like those of the Indian sub-continent. Human-rights documents such as Who Are the Guilty? are essential to the process of broadening civil institutions: they are weapons with which society asserts itself against a state that runs criminally amok, as the one did in Delhi in November of 1984.

It is heartening that sanity prevails today in Punjab. But not elsewhere. In Bombay, local government officials want to stop any public buildings from being painted green – a color associated with the Muslim religion. And hundreds of city’s Muslims have been deported from the city slums – in at least one case for committing an offense no graver than reading a Bengali newspaper. It is imperative that government insure that those who instigate mass violence do not go unpunished.

The Bosnian writer Dzevad Karahasan, in a remarkable essay called Literature and War (published last year in the collection Sarajevo, Exodus of a City), makes a startling connection between modern literary aestheticism and the contemporary world’s indifference to violence:

The decision to perceive literally everything as an aesthetic phenomenon - completely sidestepping questions about goodness and truth - is an artistic decision. That decision started in the realm of art, and went on to become characteristic of the contemporary world.

When I went back to my desk in November 1984, I found myself confronting decisions about writing that I had never faced before. How was I to write about what I had seen without reducing it to a mere spectacle?

My next novel was bound to be influenced by my experiences, but I could see no way of writing directly about those events without recreating them as a paranoma of violence –
“an aesthetic phenomenon,” as Karahasan was to call it. At the time, the idea seemed obscene and futile; of much greater importance were factual reports of the testimony of the victims. But these were already being done by people who were, I knew, more competent than I could be.

Within a few months, I started my novel, which I eventually called The Shadow Lines –
a book that led me backward in time, to earlier memories of riots, ones witnessed in childhood. It became a book not about any one event but about the meaning of such events and their effects on the individuals who live through them.

And until now I have never really written about what I saw in November 1984. I am not alone: several others who took part in that march went on to publish books, yet nobody, so far as I know, has ever written about it except in the passing.

There are good reasons for this, not least the politics of the situation, which leave so little room for the writer. The riots were generated by a cycle of violence, involving terrorists in Punjab on the one hand, and the Indian government on the other. To write carelessly in such a way as to endorse terrorism or repression, can add easily to the problem: in such incendiary circumstances, words cost lives, and it is only appropriate that those who deal in words should pay scrupulous attention to what they say. It is only appropriate that they should find themselves inhibited.

The market in Azadpur was torched. Credit: HT Photo
But there is also a simple explanation. Before I could set down a word, I had to resolve a dilemma, between being a writer and being a citizen. As a writer, I had only obvious subjects: the violence. From the news report, or the latest film or novel, we have come to expect the bloody detail or the elegantly staged conflagration that closes a chapter or effects a climax. But it is worth asking if the very obviousness of this subject arises out of out modern conventions of representations: within the dominant aesthetic of our time –
the aesthetic of what Karahasan calls “indifference” – it is all too easy to present violence as an apocalyptic spectacle, while the resistance to it can as easily figure as mere sentimentality, or worse, as pathetic or absurd.

Writers don’t join crowds – Naipaul and so many others teach us that. But what do you do when the Constitutional authority fails to act? You join and in joining bear all the responsibility and obligations and guilt that joining represents. My experience of the violence was overwhelming and memorable of the resistance to it. When I think of the women staring down the mob, I am not filled with writerly wonder. I am reminded of my gratitude from being saved from injury. What I saw at firsthand – and not merely on that march but on the bus, in Hari’s house, in the huge compound filled with essential goods –
was not the horror of violence but the affirmation of humanity: in each case, I witnessed the risks that perfectly ordinary people were willing to take for one another.

When I now read descriptions of troubled parts of the world, in which violence appears primordial and inevitable, a fate to which masses of people are largely resigned, I find myself asking: Is that all there was to it? Or is it possible that the authors of these descriptions failed to find a form – or a style or a voice of a plot – that could accommodate both violence and the civilised, willed response to it?

The truth is that the commonest response to violence is one of the repugnance, and that a significant number of people everywhere try to oppose it in whatever way they can. That these effects so rarely appear in accounts of violence is not surprising: they are too un-dramatic. For those who participate in them, they are often hard to write about for the very reasons that so long delayed my own account of 1984.

“Let us not fool ourselves,” Karahasan writes. “The world is written first – the Holy Books say that it was created in words and all that happens in it, happens in language first.”

It is when we think of the world the aesthetic of indifference might bring into being that we recognize the urgency of remembering the stories we have not written.

(Source: Scroll)

Thursday, 20 December 2018

Anti-Sikh riots: Newborn twins were tossed into fire like lifeless objects, says family

On Monday, as the Delhi High Court sentenced Sajjan Kumar, the women, sitting at their flat in CRPF colony in Ludhiana, said are grateful for those who took the fight forward.

Unwell after her delivery on October 31, 1984, Charanjit Kaur, in her twenties then, hadn’t even spent much time with her newborn twins (a boy and a girl). Now 59, she still remembers stifled cries of her newborns who were snatched from her sister-in-law’s hands, tossed in fire and burnt alive by a mob in front of their residence in Sultanpuri area of Delhi, two days later on November 2. The family lost seven members, including two newborns.

Bhupinder Kaur (70) recalls how their residence was attacked and five men, including her husband Bant Singh, brothers-in-law Shingara Singh and Kulwant Singh (aged 30-40), uncle Magar Singh (in sixties) and a nephew Kulwant Singh (in twenties) were burnt alive in front of her.

“My sister-in-law Charanjit had delivered twins on October 31. I was cradling them when mob attacked. After all five men were killed, the mob moved towards us and children. I was trying to hide babies and suppressed their cries by putting my hand on their mouths. But the attackers pushed me to the ground and snatched the babies. They were tossed in fire as if they were lifeless objects and burnt alive,” says Bhupinder.

On Monday, as the Delhi High Court convicted and sentenced Congress leader Sajjan Kumar for life imprisonment for alleged killings of five Sikhs in Cantonment area during riots in 1984, the three widows sitting at their flat in CRPF colony of Dugri in Ludhiana (allotted to riot victims), said they want to convey heartfelt thanks and gratitude to those families who took fight ahead against Congress leader and kept going till justice was delivered.

Charanjit, Bhupinder, Surjit at their home in Ludhiana. (Express Photo by Gurmeet Singh)
A separate case for alleged killings of six Sikhs and rioting in Sultanpuri of Delhi is pending against Sajjan Kumar in Patiala House Courts in Delhi. A witness, Cham Kaur, identified him in court, saying that she saw him instigating mob in Sultanpuri.  But like many other 1984 riots cases, this case did not reach courts even though the three women have copies of handwritten applications stamped by Sultanpuri police dated November 14, 1984, preserved as ‘proof’.

“We were unable to take our case to court because we had no money, manpower or resources. But we are thankful to those who took this fight ahead and kept it going. Through them, we have got justice today. My children, whose lives were ended in just two days, got justice today. I do not even have any photograph of babies to remember how they looked,” says Charanjit, wife of late Kulwant Singh.

Surjit Kaur (65), whose husband Shingara Singh was burnt alive, says, “We were in shock for many days. Later, neighbours and locals told that Congress leader Sajjan Kumar was leading and instigating the mob in our area, Sultanpuri. We had no courage, resources or manpower to pursue the case… everything was lost already. We moved to Ludhiana in 1985 and lived in a cattle shed for three years. We worked as domestic helps to feed four other children. For a few years, we kept visiting Delhi but then it just wasn’t possible to take the fight forward.”

“The attackers were shouting- ‘Inhone hamari maa ko maar dia. (They killed our mother)’. We had a photograph of Indira Gandhi in our home and also those of Sikh Gurus. Attackers came inside and demolished all photos except that of Indira Gandhi. They did not touch Indira’s photo,” says Surjit.

“First they crushed heads of five men with stones and then set them on fire with tyres around their necks. Our Hindu neighbours tried to stop mobs but they too were threatened. For three days, we kept sitting near burnt bodies so that stray dogs don’t drag them away. It was only on November 5 that neighbours arranged wood and cremations were done. We did not even had money to buy wood. Later, we shifted to a camp,” says Bhupinder.

Gurdeep Kaur, head of women’s wing of 1984 Sikh Katle-Aam Peerit Welfare Society (Punjab), whose two brothers-in-law were also allegedly killed by a mob in Mangolpuri of Delhi, says, “The mobs were being led and instigated by Sajjan Kumar in Sultanpuri and Mangolpuri areas but women who were left behind had no resources or money to take cases ahead. No FIRs were registered by name and all they have are handwritten copies of applications. There are hundreds such cases which have not even reached courts yet. We had submitted 135 such affidavits in 2005 when Nanavati commission was constituted requesting to register fresh FIRs.”

Senior advocate HS Phoolka said, “Case against Sajjan Kumar for allegedly instigating mobs in Sultanpuri is pending in court. Two witnesses Cham Kaur and Sheila Kaur have identified him.”

(Source: The Indian Express)

Monday, 14 May 2018

Navdeep Bains: US apologizes after Canada minister told to remove turban

Bains, a cabinet minister, said he refused to take off his turban after he had already passed through regular security checks

Officials from the Trump administration issued an apology after a security agent at a Detroit airport repeatedly demanded that a Canadian cabinet minister remove his turban, the minister has revealed.

Navdeep Bains, the country’s minister of Innovation, Science and Economic Development, described the incident in an interview with the French-language paper La Presse on Thursday.

Bains was returning to Toronto after meetings with Michigan state leaders in April 2017 and had already passed through regular security checks, but because he was wearing a turban, a security agent told him that he would have to undergo additional checks, according to La Presse.

“He told me to take off my turban. I asked him why I would have to take off my turban when the metal detector had worked properly,” the minister said. The US amended its travel policy in 2007, allowing Sikhs to keep turbans on while passing during the security inspection process.

“It was an uncomfortable experience,” said Bains.

He refused the agent’s request to remove his turban: “I believed that it was an intrusion into my private life … They would never ask me to take off my clothes,” he said. The agent eventually relented.

Bains said that when he travels, he rarely discloses his identity as a cabinet minister, in order to better understand the travel experiences – and frustrations – of people not afforded similar privileges.

Navdeep Bains, Canada’s minister of Innovation, Science and Economic Development: ‘I believed that it was an intrusion into my private life … They would never ask me to take off my clothes’ Photograph: Rebecca Cook/Reuters
When he appeared at his scheduled gate, a second security agent approached him, requesting Bains return to the security checkpoint – and again telling him to remove his head-covering.

“He told me: ‘You have to take off your turban.’ I responded politely that it was not a security threat and that I had passed all the security controls. Then he asked for my name and identification. I reluctantly gave him my diplomatic passport.”

It was the moments that followed which most incensed Bains.

“I was speechless … I was at the point of boarding and they asked me to take off my turban. But upon learning of my diplomatic status, they told me that everything is fine. That’s not a satisfactory response.”

The incident prompted foreign affairs minister Chrystia Freeland to express disappointment to her US counterparts. Both undersecretaries for the homeland security and transportation departments apologized for the incident.

Canada has more Sikh ministers than any other country in the world. In the 2015 election, 20 Sikhs were elected members of parliament and four – Bains, Harjit Sajjan, Amarjeet Sohi and Bardish Chagger – were appointed as federal ministers.

“Unfortunately these types of incidents do occur from time to time to minorities in particular. But it should never become the norm,” Bains said in a statement. “I will continue to promote diversity and inclusion across the country as our government has done since we took office. It is exactly why I ran for office.”

(Source: The Guardian)

Wednesday, 29 November 2017

50,000 free hot meals a day at the Golden Temple

Since the time of Guru Nanak, the first guru of the Sikh people who started the tradition in 1481, the Golden Temple in Amritsar has been serving free hot meals, also known as langar, to people of all religions and faiths who come to its doors every day.

Free langars are served at all Sikh gurudwaras, wherever they may be in the world. But the langar at the Golden Temple is special indeed. This does not have so much to do with the quality of the food, which is always delicious, but for the sheer scale of the operation and the number of devoted volunteers who prepare it with much love, every single day of the week.

Here are 10 things you must know about the langar at the Golden Temple, the largest free kitchen in the world:


1. Meals in the langar are vegetarian, and are simple, nourishing and nutritious. They usually consist of rotis (bread), rice, daal (lentils), a vegetable dish, and kheer (dessert).

2. The langar at the Golden Temple serves a massive number – 50,000 people a day! On holidays/religious occasions, the number often goes up to 100,000!

3. The kitchen has two dining halls, which have a combined capacity of 5000 people. People come and sit down to eat on the mats on the floor, are served food by the volunteers, and are ushered out politely to make room for the next round of diners.

4. Serving these many people day after day is no easy task, but the clockwork efficiency of the sewadars (workers) makes the task simple. Usually, 90% of the working staff is made up of volunteers who, along with the 300 permanent sewadars, ensure the food is cooked and delivered on time. Some people volunteer for a few hours, some for a day, while others volunteer for days on end!

5. There are two kitchens in which the food is prepared. There are 11 hot plates (tawa), several burners, machines for sieving and kneading dough, and several other utensils. On normal days, all the dishes are hand made by the sewadars.

6. On holidays and religious occasions, a roti making machine (donated by a Lebanon based devotee) is used, which can churn out 25,000 rotis in just 1 hour!

7. Given the numbers of diners, imagine the amount of raw material needed! About 50 quintals of wheat, 18 quintals of daal, 14 quintals of rice, and 7 quintals of milk are consumed daily in the langar kitchen. One hundred gas cylinders are needed to cook the food.


8. Most of the raw materials are brought from Delhi, or bought locally. The kitchen receives a lot of donations too, either in cash or kind.

9. Normal cooking vessels don’t suffice for cooking such vast quantities of food. Instead, the langar uses large vats that can store as much as 7 quintals of daal or kheer at a time!

10. Hygiene is of utmost importance, both before and after meals. Dirty plates are handed over to another set of volunteers. Each plate is washed 5 times before being used again.

The selflessness and generosity of the volunteers at Harmandir Sahib shows that not only is this beautiful temple made of gold, but so are the hearts of the devotees who come to worship here.

(Source: The Better India)

Saturday, 16 September 2017

‘Guru ka langar’ begins at Bangladesh-Myanmar border, target 35,000 meals per day

"You need two rooms for a Gurudwara: A reading room and a feeding room. But if you have only one room for starting a Gurudwara, start the feeding room first," said Guru Angad. On the first day of the langar at Bangladesh-Myanmar border, Sikh volunteers served cooked rice and vegetables, writes Divya Goyal in the Indian Express. Read on: 

Three days after Sikh volunteers from Khalsa Aid (India) arrived in Bangladesh-Myanmar border to begin relief work for Rohingya Muslims fleeing Myanmar, they finally got the go ahead from the Bangladesh government to start the Guru ka langar (community kitchen preparing and serving fresh hot meals) on Thursday.

The Khalsa Aid team, which is camping in the border town of Teknaf, told The Indian Express that the Bangladesh government finally gave all the clearances and permissions required to serve meals to the refugees. The team was initially distributing packed food items and water to the refugees.

Sikh volunteers preparing meals for Rohingya refugees. (Source: Khalsa Aid)
On Thursday, the langar sewa began at a spot on Shahpuri Island (also known as Shapuree Island) where the refugees from Myanmar are landing after traveling for days in rickety boats.

Speaking to The Indian Express over phone, Amarpreet Singh, managing director, India for Khalsa Aid, said, “We cooked and served the first langar meals here today. We had purchased raw materials like rice, vegetables and big utensils on Wednesday after getting required permissions from the government of Bangladesh. The initial target is at least 35,000 meals per day. However seeing the increasing number of refugees here, we know it won’t be enough to feed all but we had to start somewhere.”

The Khalsa Aid team, which is camping in the border town of Teknaf said that the Bangladesh government finally gave all the clearances and permissions required to serve meals to the refugees
Seeing the ‘miserable state’ of the refugees, especially children who haven’t eaten for days, it was difficult for the team to decide from where langar should start, he added.

“We feared that there might be a stampede seeing food being served here. There are at least 3 lakh refugees here already. But a beginning had to be made though we cannot feed everyone here in a single day. People are in dire need of food here. Children are roaming and begging on roads for food. The condition continues to be miserable,” he said.

Sikh volunteers say they will initially serve at least 35,000 meals per day. (Source: Khalsa Aid)
On the first day of the langar, Sikh volunteers served cooked rice and vegetables.

However, starting the community kitchen and making all preparations in the border town of Bangladesh, which continues to be flooded with Rohingya Muslims from Myanmar, wasn’t easy as the team initially faced some hiccups.

“We went to local markets to purchase utensils and raw materials. But some shopkeepers inflated the rates and quoted double prices seeing that we are outsiders. However many locals also helped us in making arrangements. We managed somehow. Attitude of the locals towards Rohingyas is varying at individual level. Some are really compassionate and trying to help them. They are even coming from far off areas to help them but then some are not. They are seeing them as burden on their country,” said Singh.

On the first day of the langar, Sikh volunteers served cooked rice and vegetables. (Source: Khalsa Aid)
Before serving the meals, an ardaas (a prayer) was performed.

On Monday, The Indian Express first reported that a team of Sikh volunteers from India reached Bangladesh- Myanmar border town Teknaf to start relief operations and provide food to the Rohingya Muslim refugees fleeing Myanmar. The team told The Indian Express that the “condition at the border was miserable to say the least” and that their first priority would be to “provide food” to as many persons as possible.

Meanwhile, the Khalsa Aid volunteers back home are organizing fundraisers for the langar sewa at Bangladesh border. Gursahib Singh, a volunteer in Ludhiana said, “The langar there can continue only if we have requisite funds. We request people to donate for the sake of humanity. Please forget about religion barriers and think about the children who are sleeping with empty stomachs. They are also humans.”