Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts

Sunday, 9 July 2023

Serenity Unveiled: The Enchanting Japanese Garden in Malampuzha Gardens

Hidden within the verdant landscape of Malampuzha Gardens in Kerala, India lies a tranquil haven inspired by the exquisite aesthetics of Japan—the Japanese Garden. Nestled amidst the bustling city, this serene oasis invites visitors to experience the essence of Japanese culture, art, and nature. In this travel article, we embark on a virtual journey through the mesmerizing Japanese Garden, exploring its stunning landscapes, elegant architecture, and symbolic elements that reflect the beauty and harmony found in traditional Japanese gardens.

A Gateway to Tranquility:

As you step foot into the Japanese Garden at Malampuzha Gardens, a sense of tranquility washes over you. The meticulously designed landscape seamlessly blends elements of nature and art, captivating visitors with its serene ambiance. The garden features a quintessential Japanese gate, known as a torii, which serves as a symbolic entrance, marking the transition from the ordinary world into a realm of tranquility and reflection.

Harmonious Landscapes:

Strolling along the winding paths of the Japanese Garden, you'll discover a harmonious blend of lush greenery, serene water bodies, and meticulously crafted landscapes. The garden's design reflects the traditional Japanese concept of "borrowed scenery" (shakkei), where the surrounding natural elements are incorporated to enhance the garden's beauty.

Gently flowing streams, adorned with ornamental bridges, meander through the garden, creating a soothing soundscape. The crystal-clear waters reflect the surrounding foliage, adding a touch of ethereal beauty to the landscape. These streams eventually converge into a picturesque pond, teeming with vibrant koi fish—a symbol of good fortune and perseverance in Japanese culture.

Tranquil Tea Houses:

Nestled amidst the meticulously manicured gardens, the Japanese Garden in Malampuzha features traditional tea houses, known as chashitsu, where visitors can experience the art of tea ceremony. These tranquil spaces are designed to provide a serene setting for contemplation and relaxation. The tea houses, built in a minimalist architectural style, exhibit the influence of Japanese aesthetics and emphasize the connection between humans and nature.

Symbolic Elements:

Every element in the Japanese Garden at Malampuzha Gardens holds symbolic significance, reflecting the profound connection between nature and spirituality. Carefully placed rocks represent mountains or islands, while meticulously pruned trees evoke a sense of age and wisdom.

One iconic feature is the stone lanterns, known as tōrō, scattered throughout the garden. These lanterns, often carved with intricate designs, serve both a practical and symbolic purpose. Lit during festivals and special occasions, they guide visitors along the paths and symbolize the illumination of one's spiritual journey.

The presence of stone pathways, meticulously raked gravel, and sand patterns in the garden reflect the concept of "karesansui" or dry landscape gardening. These elements are intended to evoke a sense of calm and contemplation, allowing visitors to engage in a meditative experience as they traverse the garden.

Embracing Seasons:

The Japanese Garden at Malampuzha Gardens undergoes a mesmerizing transformation with each passing season. In spring, cherry blossoms paint the garden in hues of pink, creating a breathtaking spectacle reminiscent of Japan. The vibrant autumn foliage, with its warm hues of red, orange, and gold, bathes the garden in a captivating tapestry of colors.

A Cultural Hub:

Beyond its visual appeal, the Japanese Garden serves as a cultural hub, offering visitors an opportunity to immerse themselves in various Japanese art forms and traditions. Regular events and workshops are held, showcasing Japanese calligraphy, Ikebana (flower arrangement), origami (paper folding), and traditional music performances. These activities provide a deeper understanding of Japanese culture and foster a sense of cross-cultural exchange.

The Japanese Garden at Malampuzha Gardens in Kerala is a testament to the timeless beauty and artistry of traditional Japanese gardens. Its harmonious landscapes, symbolic elements, and cultural offerings transport visitors to a world of serenity and contemplation. Whether you seek a moment of tranquility or a glimpse into the rich tapestry of Japanese culture, this enchanting garden is a must-visit destination. So, next time you find yourself in Kerala, be sure to embark on a serene journey through the captivating Japanese Garden, where nature and art converge in perfect harmony.

Saturday, 8 July 2023

Malampuzha Gardens: Kerala's Enchanting Floral Paradise

Nestled amidst the picturesque landscapes of Palakkad in Kerala, India, the Malampuzha Gardens beckon visitors with their vibrant blooms, serene ambiance, and captivating attractions. Spread across acres of lush greenery, this iconic garden complex offers a perfect blend of natural beauty and human-made wonders. In this travel article, we embark on a virtual journey through the mesmerizing Malampuzha Gardens, exploring its enchanting floral displays, serene water bodies, and the multitude of experiences it has to offer.

A Symphony of Colors

As you enter the Malampuzha Gardens, you are greeted by an explosion of colors that awakens the senses. The garden is adorned with meticulously manicured flowerbeds, showcasing a myriad of seasonal blooms. From vibrant roses, cheerful marigolds, and exotic orchids to delicate lilies, hibiscus, and aromatic jasmine, the floral diversity is a feast for the eyes. The careful arrangement of flowers in various patterns and designs adds to the visual splendor of the gardens.

Sculpture Garden: Where Art Meets Nature

One of the highlights of Malampuzha Gardens is the Sculpture Garden, a unique space where art seamlessly blends with nature. The garden is adorned with stunning sculptures and installations created by renowned artists, both local and international. Each sculpture tells a story, portraying mythological characters, historical figures, and cultural symbols. As you stroll through this enchanting garden, you'll encounter masterpieces that reflect the artistic heritage of Kerala and evoke a sense of awe and admiration.

Boating in the Reservoir

At the heart of Malampuzha Gardens lies a serene reservoir, surrounded by lush greenery and offering a tranquil escape from the bustling city life. Visitors can embark on a leisurely boat ride, gliding across the calm waters, and soaking in the scenic beauty of the surroundings. The boating options include pedal boats, rowboats, and motorboats, allowing you to choose your preferred mode of exploration. As you navigate through the reservoir, you'll be treated to breathtaking views of the gardens, the majestic Malampuzha Dam, and the distant hills.

Fun-filled Attractions

Malampuzha Gardens is not just a haven for nature enthusiasts but also a family-friendly destination with a host of attractions. The Fantasy Park, an amusement park within the gardens, offers thrilling rides, playful water attractions, and exciting activities for children and adults alike. From exhilarating roller coasters and giant wheels to water slides and adventure zones, there's no shortage of entertainment options.

Additionally, the Garden Train takes visitors on a delightful ride around the gardens, providing a unique perspective of the lush landscapes. The Children's Park features playgrounds, toy trains, and interactive exhibits, ensuring a memorable experience for the little ones.

Nature's Serenity: Picnics and Relaxation

Malampuzha Gardens provide ample space for picnics, relaxation, and leisurely walks amidst nature's serenity. The well-manicured lawns, shaded groves, and cozy seating areas invite visitors to unwind and savor the tranquility. Families and friends can bring along picnic baskets, spread out their mats, and enjoy quality time surrounded by blooming flowers and fresh air. The gardens also offer a perfect backdrop for capturing memorable photographs, preserving the cherished moments spent in this floral paradise.

Malampuzha Gardens in Palakkad, Kerala, present a symphony of colors, art, and nature's beauty. From its vibrant flowerbeds and intricately sculpted installations to its serene water bodies and family-friendly attractions, the gardens offer a delightful escape for visitors of all ages. A visit to this enchanting paradise allows you to reconnect with nature, immerse yourself in artistic expressions, and create lasting memories amidst the blooms. Whether you seek a leisurely stroll, a boat ride on the reservoir, or an adventure-filled day at the amusement park, Malampuzha Gardens promises a rejuvenating experience that captures the essence of Kerala's natural and cultural splendor.

Friday, 7 July 2023

Palakkad Fort: Unveiling the Rich Heritage of Kerala's Ancient Citadel

Nestled in the historic city of Palakkad in Kerala, India, the Palakkad Fort stands as a majestic reminder of the region's rich cultural heritage. Built by Hyder Ali, the renowned ruler of Mysore, in the 18th century, this magnificent citadel is a testament to the architectural brilliance and strategic significance of the bygone era. In this travel article, we embark on a virtual journey through the storied walls of Palakkad Fort, unraveling its intriguing history, awe-inspiring architecture, and the cultural treasures it holds.

Historical Significance:

Palakkad Fort has witnessed centuries of history and played a pivotal role in shaping the destiny of the region. Constructed in 1766, the fort served as a stronghold against invasions from rival kingdoms. It was strategically positioned at the Palakkad Gap, a natural mountain pass that connected the Malabar coast with the plains of Tamil Nadu. Over the years, the fort changed hands between various rulers, including the British East India Company, Tipu Sultan, and the Zamorin of Calicut. Today, it stands as a symbol of resilience and endurance.

Architectural Grandeur:

The architecture of Palakkad Fort seamlessly blends elements of indigenous Kerala style with Islamic influences, reflecting the multicultural heritage of the region. The fort encompasses an expansive area, with massive stone walls rising to a height of 6 to 8 meters and stretching for about 1.6 kilometers. The fortifications are punctuated by bastions and gateways, such as the Hanuman and Vadakkanthara Gates, each with its own distinctive architectural features.

As you step inside the fort, you'll be greeted by a vast courtyard flanked by two prominent structures—the spacious Rappadi (Public Square) and the well-preserved Kota Maidanam (Fort Grounds). The Rappadi was historically used for public gatherings, and its architectural elements exhibit a blend of Dravidian and Islamic styles. The Kota Maidanam, on the other hand, served as a military parade ground and is now a hub for cultural events and exhibitions.

Cultural Heritage:

Palakkad Fort is not just a relic of architectural brilliance but also a repository of cultural treasures. The fort houses several historically significant structures and monuments that provide insights into the region's cultural heritage. The ancient Palakkad Subramanya Temple, dedicated to Lord Murugan, is situated within the fort premises. Its intricate carvings, vibrant murals, and elaborate rituals attract devotees and tourists alike.

Adjacent to the temple, you'll find the Government Victoria College, one of Kerala's oldest educational institutions. Established in 1887, the college boasts a colonial-era building that adds to the fort's charm. Other notable structures include the underground chamber known as Palakkad Fort Jail, which once held prisoners during the British era, and the ancient Hanuman Temple, believed to be the oldest temple in the fort.

Exploring the Fort and Surroundings:

A visit to Palakkad Fort allows you to explore its intriguing nooks and corners, each offering a glimpse into the past. Take a leisurely stroll along the fort's ramparts, offering panoramic views of the surrounding landscapes and the cityscape of Palakkad. As you walk through the labyrinthine pathways, marvel at the intricate carvings on the fort walls and observe the architectural details that have withstood the test of time.

The fort is also an ideal spot for picnics and relaxation. Find a shady spot amidst the well-manicured gardens and enjoy a serene moment in the midst of history. The fort's surroundings are dotted with charming local shops, where you can browse for traditional handicrafts, spices, and souvenirs.

Festivals and Cultural Events:

Palakkad Fort comes alive during festivals and cultural events, providing an immersive experience of the region's vibrant traditions. The annual Palakkad Fort Festival, organized by the Department of Tourism, showcases a range of cultural performances, including classical dance, music concerts, and traditional art forms. The festival offers a platform for local artists to showcase their talents and invites visitors to witness the cultural richness of the region.

Palakkad Fort stands as a magnificent testament to the architectural and cultural heritage of Kerala. Steeped in history, this ancient citadel offers visitors a glimpse into the bygone era and the chance to appreciate the grandeur of its construction. From its strategic significance to its cultural treasures, Palakkad Fort continues to captivate and inspire. A visit to this majestic landmark is a journey through time, allowing you to connect with the rich heritage of the region and bask in the architectural splendor of a bygone era.

Thursday, 6 July 2023

Silent Valley National Park: Exploring Kerala's Pristine Wilderness

Nestled in the lap of the Western Ghats in Kerala, India, Silent Valley National Park is a true haven for nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers. With its lush greenery, untouched wilderness, and diverse ecosystem, this magnificent park offers a unique opportunity to disconnect from the chaos of city life and reconnect with nature. In this travel article, we embark on a virtual journey to Silent Valley National Park, uncovering its breathtaking landscapes, rich biodiversity, and the importance of preserving this ecological gem.

A Paradise of Greenery:

As you step foot into Silent Valley National Park, you are greeted by a mesmerizing panorama of dense rainforests, mist-covered peaks, and gushing waterfalls. The park gets its name from the profound silence that engulfs the area, thanks to the absence of motorized vehicles. The lush greenery is a visual treat, with towering trees, vibrant ferns, and colorful orchids adorning the forest floor. The air is filled with the scent of wildflowers and the sounds of birdsong, creating a serene atmosphere that transports you to a different world.

Exploring the Flora and Fauna:

Silent Valley National Park is a biodiversity hotspot, home to an incredible array of plant and animal species. The park boasts a mix of evergreen, semi-evergreen, and deciduous forests, providing a diverse habitat for wildlife. As you embark on a guided trek, you may come across elusive creatures like the lion-tailed macaque, Malabar giant squirrel, and Nilgiri langur. The park is also home to a variety of bird species, making it a paradise for birdwatchers. Keep an eye out for the Malabar trogon, the great Indian hornbill, and the endangered Ceylon frogmouth.

The flora of Silent Valley is equally captivating. Witness the grandeur of the towering rosewood and teak trees, the delicate beauty of orchids and lilies, and the intricate patterns of ferns and mosses. The park is also known for its rare and endemic plant species, including the Silent Valley fan palm and the Nilgiri tangle fern. A visit to Silent Valley National Park is an opportunity to witness nature's exquisite craftsmanship up close.

Trekking through Pristine Trails:

For adventure enthusiasts, Silent Valley National Park offers an extensive network of trekking trails that allow you to explore its pristine wilderness. The most popular trek is the Sairandhri Trail, a 23-kilometer route that takes you deep into the heart of the park. As you navigate through the dense forests, you will encounter breathtaking viewpoints, gurgling streams, and cascading waterfalls. The Kuntipuzha River, with its crystal-clear waters, provides a refreshing spot for a quick dip or a peaceful picnic.

Another notable trail is the Kunthi Betta Trek, which takes you to the highest peak in Silent Valley National Park. The challenging ascent rewards you with panoramic views of the surrounding valleys and the opportunity to witness the sunrise or sunset in all its glory.

Conservation and Sustainable Tourism:

Silent Valley National Park holds immense ecological significance and is considered one of the last remaining tracts of undisturbed tropical evergreen forests in India. Efforts have been made to protect and preserve this ecological gem, and visitors are encouraged to engage in sustainable tourism practices. Strict regulations and guidelines are in place to ensure minimal impact on the fragile ecosystem. Travelers are advised to follow designated trails, avoid littering, and respect the park's rules and regulations.

Additionally, taking part in guided tours and interacting with local communities allows visitors to understand the importance of conservation efforts and the symbiotic relationship between humans and nature.

Silent Valley National Park stands as a testament to the wonders of nature and the importance of preserving our fragile ecosystems. A visit to this pristine wilderness offers an opportunity to reconnect with the natural world, witness rare and endemic species, and immerse yourself in the tranquil beauty of Kerala's Western Ghats. As you explore the verdant forests, listen to the symphony of birdsong, and breathe in the pure air, you will realize the significance of preserving such treasures for future generations. Silent Valley National Park beckons, ready to unveil its secrets and leave you with a profound appreciation for the wonders of the natural world.

Tuesday, 20 September 2022

How tiny Qatar plans to house a million fans during the World Cup

Qatar is expected to welcome a sizable contingent of guests this winter when it becomes the smallest nation ever to host one of the biggest sporting events in the world -- the FIFA World Cup.

The Gulf nation predicts that over one million fans will travel to Doha over the duration of the World Cup; that's around 37% of its population of 2.7 million. The country is only around 4,400 square miles in size or roughly the size of Jamaica.


Previous tournament hosts have faced several logistical issues in dealing with a large number of traveling fans -- ranging from transport to accommodation. The country's small size may have some advantages, but the challenges are plenty too.


An aerial view of Ahmad Bin Ali stadium at sunset in Al Rayyan, Qatar.



Already, there are reports of rising costs and a lack of suitable accommodation. For example, there are 21 properties available on online travel agency Booking.com for the first three nights of the tournament, with prices starting at $1,000 per night and rising to a whopping $51,000.


This isn't uncommon though. Reports from 2006 claim hotel prices spiked in Berlin and Frankfurt when Germany hosted the tournament. Prior to organizing the 2010 edition, South Africa was plagued by reports of unfinished training camps, while hotels were accused of hiking prices during the World Cup period.


"Our objective has always been providing fair and reasonable pricing for visiting fans," a spokesperson for Qatar's Supreme Committee for Delivery & Legacy (SCDL) told CNN. "We work closely with key stakeholders to ensure affordable pricing across all types of accommodation."


Host nations have often found innovative ways to house fans, and Qatar is no different.

At the 2014 World Cup in Brazil, residents living in the iconic favela slums opened their doors to tourists, renting beds, rooms, and even entire houses. Some travelers got creative and opted to stay in sex motels usually reserved for Brazilians looking to hook up after a night on the town.


Here's what Qatar has thought of to house the potentially million-strong football fans:


If you can't build them, sail them -- luxury cruise ships

Two luxury cruise ships will be moored at Doha's port for the entirety of the World Cup. Between them, they have nine pools, 3,898 cabins, 45 bars, and 10 fine dining options. Other facilities include a spa, tennis courts, and the world's largest dry slide at sea.


Worried you'll need to look your best for a group stage fixture between Japan and Costa Rica? Fear not, you'll have access to a barber shop and beauty salon.


The ships are a 10-minute shuttle ride to the center of Doha but staying in one of the spacious cabins will not be cheap. They should range from $605 to $2,779 per night -- though that's a snip compared to some of the other options available to ticketholders, considering it includes a buffet breakfast.


A home away from home -- apartments and villas

Qatar Accommodation Agency, the official supplier of lodging for the event, aims to make 100,000-130,000 rooms available on any given night of the 28-day tournament.


There are already listings for ticketholders for one to six-bedroom apartments and villas, with prices for ticketholders ranging from $84 to $875 per night. Most are easily accessible by public transport and the villas are fully equipped with kitchens, washing machines, pools, and gyms.


This accommodation, like others provided by the Accommodation Agency, will be rented out on a first-serve basis, via a staggered release in line with FIFA's ticketing phases or in packages provided by Qatar Airways.


On top of official accommodation, it will provide a booking platform similar to Airbnb for residents to rent out their homes to traveling fans. By applying for a license from Qatar Tourism, residents or owners of buildings can also list their apartments on other portals, such as Airbnb.


The festival experience -- fan villages

Ticketholders can purchase accommodation at so-called fan villages; described as "casual camping and cabin-style accommodations." At a cost of $207 a night, the small, basic converted portacabins are pricey, and only offer a kettle, fridge, and two bottles of water per day. They are dotted on the outskirts of Doha, the furthest being 25 miles from the airport. There will be a number of food and entertainment options available on site, but details about those have not been made available yet.


Desert camping, the Arabian way -- Bedouin-style tents

The camping option is not yet available on the official accommodation website, but the head of accommodation at the SC, Omar Al-Jaber, has said he plans to pitch 1,000 "Bedouin style" tents in the desert during the tournament. 


Around 200 of those will be classified as "luxury" and cost an "expensive" fee, providing an "authentic" experience for fans, Al-Jaber told Reuters. They will have air conditioning to protect fans from the cold desert nights and sweltering morning heat.


If all else fails, sleep in a different country

Accommodation in Qatar is expected to be so limited that the country has opted to house ticketholders in neighboring nations and fly them in and out on short flights every day.


Qatar Airways announced in May that it had partnered with regional carriers to launch 160 extra daily return flights at "competitive prices" that will shuttle fans from Dubai, Jeddah, Kuwait, Muscat, and Riyadh. There will be no baggage check-in facilities to speed up the transfers and dedicated transportation services will be made available to get fans from the airport to stadiums.


It will also be possible to drive from cities like Riyadh, Dubai, and Abu Dhabi, all of which are under seven hours away.


(Source: CNN)

Wednesday, 19 January 2022

‘Travelers who were lost forever’: Why tourists experience ‘India syndrome’

 Some travelers who spend longer periods of time in India exhibit a curious condition: a spectrum of behavioral and psychological changes that can be all-consuming. 

In 1985, Régis Airault arrived in India to work as the resident doctor of psychology at the French consulate in Mumbai.

At the time, travelers from France, upon arriving in India, could visit the consulate to place their passport and return plane ticket into safe-keeping. Airault had the opportunity to speak to those travelers, often in their 20s or early 30s, soon after they landed in India. All were excited about their forthcoming travels.


But soon, Airault began noticing a curious condition in some of the French travelers, particularly among those who had spent longer periods of time in the country: a spectrum of behavioral and psychological changes that later became known as “India syndrome”. The condition has cousins around the world: religious tourists to Jerusalem are struck with a spontaneous psychosis upon visiting the city, certain that they are hearing God or in the presence of saints; visitors to Florence are physically overcome, even hallucinate, upon viewing the beauty of the city’s art.


In India, Airault would be dispatched to examine travelers who had lost their bearings, had become disoriented and confused, or had found themselves in manic and psychotic states. The contrast was shocking. “I would see them perfect when they arrive and after one month, I would see them totally unstable,” he recalls. Initially, what Airault observed was blamed solely on drug use, but many of the travelers were also exhibiting symptoms such as depression and isolation, stemming from a feeling of disorientation in an unfamiliar land or culture.


In rare cases, others were later diagnosed with acute psychosis, delirium and delusion. At its most powerful, India syndrome could be all-consuming, leading to a complete detachment from reality or an overwhelming disconnection from familiarity. Airault came to call that group “the travelers who were lost forever”.


Over the decade that followed, the French psychiatrist traveled back and forth between France and India researching and compiling notes and observations into a thesis, which he adapted into a book, published in 2000, called Fous de l’Inde – Crazy About India – which revolves around a central question: does India itself bring forth these transformations, or do people go there determined to be transformed?


“More than any other country,” he wrote about travelers from the west, “India has a way of stimulating the imagination and stirring intense aesthetic emotions which can at any moment plunge the traveler into utter anxiety. For this reason, our ‘experience’ of India can be somewhat ambivalent.” This depends on each person’s personal history, their ‘impulse to travel’ and past traumas which have been buried deep inside,” he wrote. “The subconscious has a way of bringing us face-to-face with them at certain times of our lives. Because India speaks to the unconscious: it provokes it, makes it boil and, sometimes, overflow. It brings forth, from the deep layers of our psyche, the buried.”


Airault distinguished the symptoms of India syndrome from common culture shock, the experience of travelers either feeling an intense connection to a new and different place or feeling an extreme rejection and disconnection from it. Culture shock often manifests within days of arriving; India syndrome, rather, typically emerges after weeks or months of residing in the country. He noted that many travelers arrive with some deep-rooted idea of what India is, previously held expectations of what India can offer – emotionally, physically or spiritually – and a hardened determination to realize that imagined experience: “The trip to India begins early, with the idea that we have made, conveyed by our culture, its cliches, its legends, its myths, but also by our childhood fed by marvelous tales and stories.”


‘Many travelers arrive with some deep-rooted idea of what India is.’ Photograph: Anand Purohit/Getty Images




"India speaks to the unconscious: it provokes it, makes it boil and, sometimes, overflow."

Régis Airault


He included dozens of examples of foreign travelers he observed or treated: one had burned his passport shortly after arriving and spent two months in prison suffering from anxiety attacks; one had been wandering around India, in good health and spirits, for five years even as his parents had presumed him dead; and another had traveled to the holy city of Varanasi and believed that the goddess Kali could hear his dreams and was speaking to him. Many of the cases were more benign: travelers arriving with an emotional or traumatic history that was suddenly brought to the surface and confronted, which resulted in a breakdown.


Much of what psychiatrists have noted as India syndrome, however, is rooted in an exaggerated and sometimes misplaced expectation for what travelers believe India might offer. They leave home expecting enlightenment at the pinnacle of their journey and stop at nothing in their pursuit.


Though India syndrome, like many of its cousins, is not universally recognized or officially accepted as a psychological diagnosis, the symptoms have become enough of a concern that insurance companies selling travel packages to India-bound tourists have been known to include clauses that void the coverage if the traveler has a psychiatric history or if he or she takes drugs.


Several embassies and consulates in India have permanent psychiatrists on staff to address and treat their nationals in distress. If they don’t, they contact a psychiatrist such as Sunil Mittal, who has built a career in part on diagnosing and treating the conditions that arise from India syndrome.


As the senior psychiatrist at the Cosmos Institute of Mental Health and Behavioural Sciences, Mittal sees approximately one foreign tourist every week in his office in New Delhi who would fall under the umbrella of India syndrome. The tourists arrive at the clinic through the recommendation of an embassy, in response to the concerned pleas of a family member, or as the result of an arrest made by police.


Mittal breaks down cases of India syndrome into two categories. The first occurs among those who arrive as simple tourists but bring with them some emotional or psychological issue or trauma relating to their family, their job, their relationships, or their past. “They come with a turmoil and they have a breakdown here,” Mittal explains. At the core of the person, he says, lies a vulnerability, a deep-rooted issue that he or she hopes to resolve.


The second group is made up of those who come to India determined to embark on some form of spiritual journey to seek higher meaning or realization. They visit holy centers and sites and immerse themselves in training and study of meditation or yoga. They often become enamored by yogis or gurus, or the juxtaposition between what is expected and reality, and seek an extreme break from their life back home.


“On the path of a spiritual quest, all the values that have been ingrained in someone are questioned,” Mittal says. “This can lead to a state of emptiness, a state of loss of direction, or a sudden feeling of exaltation – and then not knowing how to handle a situation.”


Though drug use is rarely the only spark, it is often an accelerant. Cannabis has been consumed in India for centuries in three forms. The most common is bhang, prepared with ground-up leaves and seeds that are mixed into a drink like a yogurt-based lassi. Ganga is the flowering buds of the cannabis plant, most often consumed by smoking. And charas, or hash, is produced by rubbing the sticky resin off the leaves and buds of the plant until it forms balls that are smoked in a straight clay pipe. Records of cannabis use in Ayurvedic medicine date back a millennium. But the plant most famously appears in Hindu mythology as a favorite of Shiva.


In 1986, India made the cultivation, consumption and sale of all forms of cannabis illegal, despite its continued use by sadhus and international tourists alike. The convoluted gray area that cannabis occupies – semi-illegal, openly used ceremonially – has tempted many foreign tourists to experiment. The results can be overwhelming. “It’s like a bomb,” Mittal says.


The new lens that the traveler begins to see through can distort even the surest of convictions, replacing hesitation with complete openness, skepticism with blind trust. The lens can undoubtedly offer positive experiences, but also more extreme results. For a 2007 paper on the forces that push international tourists in India to renounce their lives, the Indian anthropologist Meena Khandelwal interviewed three foreigners who had moved permanently to India to pursue a spiritual journey and noted that a US consulate official in New Delhi had told her that “his office may see about 25 Americans each year who have exhausted financial resources and alienated family members in the United States”.


Changes can manifest themselves subtly at first, as strong culture shock. Some begin to wear one of the many forms of Indian sari. They carry walking sticks, wear red threads tied around their wrists denoting blessings and sport long necklaces. Travelers who are not Hindu or Muslim or Buddhist or Jain before arriving become, at least in appearance, a model example of a convert. They stay in ashrams or monasteries, where they study and learn, reform their lifestyle or system of belief, or preach asceticism.


Over his career, Mittal has treated hundreds of cases across a spectrum of severity. There was the American man found wandering near the Taj Majal, disoriented and confused. After noticing the man behaving bizarrely, the owner of a roadside eatery called the police. The US embassy was contacted and the man then sent to Mittal’s clinic.


He determined that the man had arrived in the city of Agra like any other tourist; he had not been on a spiritual journey but simply wanted to see the iconic mausoleum. There, he had tried cannabis, something he had smoked back home with no adverse effects, but this time it had proved overwhelming. He arrived at the clinic unable to answer more than basic questions. “He left everything – his backpack, passport, everything – and just ran away,” 


Mittal says. Within a month of his return to the United States, he had returned to his normal self.


Then there was the British woman who had been living alone for a year in a small cottage in the mountains of the state of Uttarakhand. Locals had become concerned after she had begun behaving and talking strangely and stopped paying her rent. When police arrived, she claimed she had been captured by spirits. Her family contacted Mittal, who saw that she was on a path to a complete renunciation of her previous life.


"At one end, it could be a true pursuit, and for somebody else it could result in a psychotic state." Sunil Mittal


And there was the American woman in her 20s who had been traveling in India before withdrawing from contact with home – one of the more severe cases Mittal has seen. After months of searching, she was found living in an ashram in Rishikesh and performing erotic, half-naked dances each night. When confronted by Mittal’s team, she was adamant that she was an apsara, a female mythological spirit who tempts yogis and priests to test their resolve in celibacy. She assured Mittal that she was fine and that this was her path, but she appeared to be in a trancelike state.


For both Airault and Mittal, in most cases, the treatment is simple: a plane ticket home. But in other, more severe cases, the experiences of some individuals in India can leave permanent marks on their behavior even after they return home. In one case, a Japanese tourist had been reported missing and was tracked to Varanasi, where he had had a psychotic episode and been detained by police after trying to board a train without a ticket. When he was brought to the clinic, Mittal found him to be suffering from schizophrenia and sent him home to Japan. Four years later, he reappeared at the clinic, asking to be hospitalized. “He felt he was going to be safe in India,” Mittal says.


“At one end, it could be a true pursuit,” Mittal explains, “and for somebody else it could result in a psychotic state.” At this darker end, some travelers come to believe that they are inhabited by spirits or are a god incarnate. Others place themselves in dangerous situations by pushing themselves to increasingly greater extremes in their search for spiritual fulfillment.


As Airault concluded in Fous de l’Inde, there are some “who wander aimlessly, in another world and without desire, sheltered from emptiness, suffering and life … At the end of the road, the limit may be death.”


Lost in the Valley of Death: A Story of Obsession and Danger in the Himalayas, is out now


(Source: The Guardian)

Monday, 18 October 2021

‘No one person gets to limit what it means to be Indian’: Namit Arora, author of ‘Indians’

To write his book, Arora travelled to the seats of the different civilisations of India.


An alumnus of IIT, Kharagpur, Namit Arora spent almost two decades in Silicon Valley as an Internet technology professional. In 2013, he quit his job and returned to India and, almost for two years, he volunteered with the Delhi government to find innovative solutions to civic problems; he led the drafting of Delhi’s solar energy policy and a task force on air pollution. In between, he published two books, The Lottery of Birth: On Inherited Social Inequalities, a non-fiction, and Love and Loathing in Silicon Valley, a novel set in Silicon Valley.


Arora’s third book is about Indian civilization, titled Indians: A Brief History of a Civilization. He spoke to Scroll.in about his journey from tech professional to author, his latest book, and how he looks at the idea of Indianness. Excerpts from the interview:


Tell us something about your journey from a career in internet technology to becoming a published author of two non-fiction books and a novel. What inspired Indians: A Brief History of a Civilization?
I was herded into the “safe” engineering profession by the great forces of the Indian middle-class. Not that I desired something else in my teens. It was actually good for me in many ways. It took me from IIT Kharagpur to California. Earnings from my career funded my wanderlust and evening education in the humanities. But I did see it mostly as a day job that paid the bills.


In the early years, as with most aspiring writers, I too faced my share of rejections in the publishing world, but I lived and learned, and built a nest egg. In due course, I quit the job, returned to India, and persevered until, fortunately, things worked out. Ironically, it was my unloved tech career that financed my new life of full-time reading, writing, travelling and the sporadic volunteer project like drafting the solar energy policy for Delhi – not to mention my labour of love, Indians.


My interest in history really began after leaving India, when life in the US raised for me various questions of culture and identity. In my mid-twenties, backpacking through Mexico in the early 1990s, I was blown away by the ruins of the Mayan and Aztec civilisations. That got me hooked on “lost cities”, or historical sites that were entirely lost to living memory and were dug out by archaeologists. I’ve since visited scores of lost cities around the world.


In the mid-2000s, my partner and I took a break from work to travel in India for two years. That was an amazing experience. We visited over a hundred sites in 20 states, including all of the lost cities I write about in Indians. Each of them raised new questions for me whose answers I could not easily find.


Namit Arora at the site of Nalanda University.


For instance, I wondered what life was like in the city of Dholavira, and what of the Harappan ethos is still with us. What urban milieu produced a great thinker like Nagarjuna? What was a day in the life of a student at Nalanda? What religious worldview promoted erotica on Khajuraho’s temple walls, and why did it disappear? How did the city of Vijayanagar become so rich? Can scoundrels also gain moksha after death in Varanasi? Questions like these.


So I started digging for answers, from which emerged the idea for a book like Indians. I read early travellers and literary-philosophical works, academic histories and monographs, Bahujan and feminist scholars, and Hindu nationalists. I visited site museums and read archaeologists’ reports. I wrote book reviews, essays and travelogues. As I connected the dots, the scope of the project evolved.


What was the transition to the history of Indian civilisation after writing a novel, Love and Loathing in Silicon Valley?
It wasn’t difficult. Though the novel and the history book were published within eighteen months of each other, both books had gestated for over a decade. They proceeded in parallel and became two different modes through which I explored questions of culture and identity, with the hope of gaining a better understanding of my world and my place in it.


The dust jacket of your new book says ‘Indian civilisation is an idea, a reality, an enigma.’ Can you elaborate on this statement?
I think the statement tries to capture the varied, mutating quality of Indian civilisation. Its reality is, of course, borne out by any academic definition of “civilisation”, even as its form and content have never been stagnant or singular. 


Indeed, Indian civilisation has been a journey of profound and continuous change – from the Harappans who built the first cities with indoor toilets and the most egalitarian civilisation of the ancient world, through the dramatic reshaping of the subcontinent’s culture by the Aryan migrants with new languages, religious ideas and the varna system, the rise and fall of Buddhism and Tantrism, the advent of feudalism and Bhakti, and the Turko-Persians bringing Islam and giving rise to a new syncretic culture, to India’s momentous encounter with European colonialism and western modernity.


Not surprisingly, then, Indian civilisation has been different things to different people. For instance, there is no historical evidence that Brahmins and outcastes, or urbanites and Adivasis, or priests and Carvakas, or sultans and peasants, or Tamils and Mizos, took pride in a common idea of Indian civilisation – and is there a good reason to privilege one over the other? Can it not contain many such ideas? With so many coexisting social realities, Indian civilisation is also an enigma that has produced various, often conflicting, appraisals of its central features and qualities. People joke that India frequently confounds academic social science. To adapt Whitman, Indian civilisation is large, it contains multitudes. So it’s all of these at once: idea, reality, enigma.


Different sets of people describe and define ‘Indianness’ in different ways. How do you look at the idea of Indian identity? What according to you are the basic qualifications for being an Indian?
As I see it, anyone who considers herself an Indian is Indian. Period. There should be no further litmus tests, no additional qualifications. “Indianness”, or “Indian identity”, which transcends the citizenship of the modern state, ought to be expansive enough to accommodate all those who consider themselves Indian in whatever ways they see fit, wherever they live. No one person or group gets to limit what it means to be Indian, at least not without a fight. As the poet Rahat Indori memorably said, “Kisi Ke Baap Ka Hindustan Thodi Hai”.


Many books have been written about the history of Indian civilisation by Indians as well as foreigners. How is your book different from them?
I think each reader will see my book as different (or not) in her own way. That said, let me offer a few provisional thoughts of my own. I’d say that Indians is rare in combining narrative history with archaeological travel writing. It’s a non-traditional history. It aims for an engaging, human portrait of our lost cities, in which the traveller (me) is part of the narrative.


It also draws new insights from early travellers’ accounts that speak to our 21st century concerns and sensibilities. In short, it tries to bring alive our forgotten pasts in rich and evocative detail, combining quirky stories with the big picture of Indian civilisation and its evolution. It strives to include non-elite perspectives – the view from below – rare in histories written by non-Indians and upper-caste Indians. Nor do I shrink from controversial topics or avoid calling a spade a spade. It also incorporates significant new research from archaeology and genetics.


According to American historian Hayden White, ‘history is no less a form of fiction than the novel is a form of historical representation’. How do you interpret this statement?
What I hear White saying is that, as narrative forms, history and fiction have more in common than meets the eye. This is a compelling view, though it can be easily misunderstood. I mean, one might object and point out that the historical narrative is built on facts and verifiable events, while the fictional narrative requires nothing more than subjective human experience and imagination, and so these are two very different kinds of endeavours.


But facts are one thing, their interpretation another. Facts alone do not necessarily make the narrative of history more truthful than the narrative of fiction. Indeed, fiction can often reveal our past and present more truthfully and vividly than what facts alone can convey. This is because both types of narratives must also employ significant interpretation – ie, subjective moral and aesthetic choices and judgments – which is what makes them similar forms.


A corollary is that a great historian has much in common with a literary master. Both must attempt to enter the society they reference, to see the world as its members saw it, and understand, to the extent possible, what it was like to live in it. Both require ample sensitivity, imagination, depth of perception, the right distance, and the ability to synthesise vast bits of social knowledge. Both must examine the psychology, morals, aspirations, and assumptions of ordinary people. Neither can claim to be an impartial or omniscient narrator, and so both history and fiction are subjective, value-laden enterprises sharing a family resemblance.


You present insights in your book from the accounts of the Persian traveller, Alberuni, and the French traveller, François Bernier. Both spent more than a decade in India and wrote extensively about their experiences. How do you compare their views about India?
Alberuni visited India between 1017 and 1030, when Mahmud of Ghazni was raiding wealthy temples. Bernier stayed from 1658-69, during Aurangzeb’s first decade as emperor in Delhi. They are two of the most fascinating and perceptive observers of medieval north Indian society. Both espoused a scientific temper and a humanistic ethos. 


Both admired many things Indian but also criticised other things. They each wrote near the eve of a major incursion from outside the subcontinent – Turko-Persian and European, respectively. Like any observer, they too had their biases and blind spots (which I discuss), but they’re still very informative about two different moments in Indian society.


Alberuni, a veritable polymath, had emerged from a great flowering of science and cosmopolitan culture centred in Persia. He despised Mahmud and condemned his raids. He learned Sanskrit in India, studied the major Indian religious, philosophical and scientific texts, translated some into Arabic, and sought out learned Brahmins to clarify his doubts. He praised earlier Indian achievements in mathematics and science, but noted the dismal state of science in contemporary India (for instance, unlike Aryabhata half a millennium earlier, leading Indian astronomers now held that the earth did not rotate on its axis but was at rest).


Caste made a powerful impression on Alberuni. He saw that such birth-based inequalities and segregated living, sustained by both religious scriptures and temporal laws, prevented social solidarity and a sense of common cause. He called it the chief difference between Indians and his own people. He hated the caste mindset of the elites. It bothered him that learned Indians did not mingle with foreigners like him – refusing to sit, eat, and drink with him – for fear of being “polluted”. He saw this as a kind of “fanaticism”, and called them more “narrow-minded” than their ancestors.


Alberuni’s extensive account confirms that on the eve of the Turko-Persian invasions, Indian society wasn’t exactly the picture of intellectual and moral vigour that many now fondly imagine it to have been. India’s intellectual culture had declined in the preceding centuries; it had fallen behind in science. Buddhism and Tantrism were in terminal decline, Bhakti and Brahminical orthodoxy were ascendant. Indians had grown more insular, conservative, superstitious, caste-bound, puritanical and patriarchal (I explore this change and its causes in the book).


Such “is the state of things in India”, Alberuni lamented, that Brahmins attempt to combine ideas of purity and pollution with the pursuit of science. He also described and analysed Indian texts, marital and funerary customs, taxation and inheritance, laws and punishments, etc – which frequently differed based on one’s varna status. His portrait of north India is so thoughtful and persuasive that he deserves to be called the “first Indologist”.


As for Bernier, he was a physician-philosopher who identified with the emerging Enlightenment thought in Europe. He greatly admired the fine architecture of Delhi and Agra. Employed by one of Aurangzeb’s noblemen, he observed the pomp and glitter of the Mughal court, “the base and disgusting adulation which is invariably witnessed there” and “the vice of flattery [that] pervades all ranks”.


He derided harmful superstitions, the practice of Sati fuelled by “merciless Brahmens” but discouraged by Mughal governors, and noted the primitive state of Indian medicine. Indians “understand nothing of anatomy,” he wrote. “They never open the body either of man or beast,” so do not know of the circulation of blood (working with bodily fluids was “polluting”). According to Bernier, Hindu scholastic education in its customary guru-shishya format, which he observed in Varanasi, was limited to mostly Brahmin men of “an indolent disposition”. He proclaimed that ‘”profound and universal ignorance is the natural consequence of such a state of society”.


Bernier’s account reveals a powerful, extractive bureaucracy concentrating riches at the top, funding a huge army and the luxuries of Indian aristocrats and the seraglio. This malady went beyond the Mughal realm. He reports extreme disparities and that “most towns in Hindoustan are made up of earth, mud, and other wretched materials”, and are poorer “than those of many other parts of the globe” (then too, India’s per capita GDP was below the global average).


Bernier analysed the causes of the dismal economic state of common folk in pre-colonial India – worse than in Europe, and a far cry from popular history’s boosterish metaphor, sone ki chidiya. As in Alberuni’s time, Bernier’s account shows Indians, especially Hindus, as creatively weak, ritualistic, mired in regressive cultural habits – and, in hindsight, entirely ill-equipped to resist the next big incursion too: a European imperialism powered by modernity, joint-stock mercantilism, the nation-state, science and scholarship (which would also lead them to discover, through the coloniser’s eyes, their own forgotten antiquity).


In his recent book, Early Indians, Tony Joseph, whose work you also quote in your book, argues, ‘We are all migrants. We are all mixed.’ What is your take on this statement?
Tony’s claim is spot on, not only in terms of physical migration and the mixing of genes; it’s also true with the migration and mixing of culture. Whatever the means, cultural diffusion across regions, ethnicities, languages, religions, traders, etc has been a prominent feature of Indian life. Think of what the Aryans from Central Asia added to Indian languages, the Greeks to art, the Persians to architecture, the Sufis to music, the British to politics, and so on.


The Hindu pantheon grew out of extreme cultural appropriation and assimilation of non-Vedic folk deities. Look at how mixed our art, architecture, literature, philosophy, music, dance, cuisine, sports, dress, painting, and crafts are today. And Indians gave much to others too. The depth and complexity of such mixing becomes even more vivid in the long view of history that I take in my book.


Can you talk to us about your visits to Dholavira? How has it contributed to the understanding of Harappan civilisation?
Dholavira (2600-1900 BCE) is the best excavated Harappan city in India. It is a lovely site to wander through, with gateways, streets and homes laid out on a grid-like plan. Astonishingly, one can still find on the ground shards of their painted pottery, bits of stone bangles, and semi-precious stones used to make jewellery. One can see greenish copper slag from the smelting process for purifying the ore, as well as the tiny bones of some of the animals Dholavirans ate: cows, buffaloes, goats, sheep, wild pigs, wild asses, deer, fish, rabbit and chicken.


The onsite museum has evocative game boards carved on stone, children’s toys, figurines, seals, pottery, and more. The village of Dholavira, after which the Harappan city is named, is a short walk away, and the landscape around the island is starkly picturesque.


All Harappan sites have much in common but they spanned a large geography and are also diverse. Unlike the four larger Harappan cities we know of, riverine and rain-blessed, Dholavira was on an arid island in the Arabian Sea (it’s now amidst a salt marsh, the Great Rann of Kutch). Because of this, its inhabitants focused a lot more on capturing water.


They built amazing water harvesting systems, city-wide storm-water drains, and sixteen giant reservoirs, one of which is nine times larger than an Olympic sized swimming pool and a hundred times larger than the Great Bath of Mohenjo-Daro. They surrounded the city centre with reservoirs, which must have made a visually appealing sight.


Most of Dholavira’s structures were built not in mud-brick, the Harappan norm, but in stone, including beautiful multihued stones from a nearby quarry that I visited. Dholavira has turned up what may be the world’s first stadium, with a stand of three rows. Its trade and material culture were more maritime than riverine, and it was likely a leader in Harappan seafaring innovations. Its funerary structures also differ from other Harappan cities in largely being cenotaphs, devoid of human remains, suggesting different cultural beliefs.


Dholavirans had other distinctive cultural attributes, but their major legacy seems to me their incredible creativity, resolve and engineering acumen ,through which they managed their scarce water resources for many centuries. They waged an epic struggle against the elements. Will we, their descendants, be inspired by them and rouse ourselves to tackle climate change?


Are you planning a follow-up to Indians?
No concrete plans yet. I’m just making my way through a pile of books that had built up while I was working on Indians. I also lost my father to Covid this year during the second wave, which has been very unsettling. Perhaps a new book project, for which I have at least a couple of candidates, will emerge in due course.


Abdullah Khan is a Mumbai-based novelist, screenwriter, literary critic and banker. His debut novel Patna Blues has been translated into eight languages. 


(Source: Scroll)