Thursday, 3 January 2019

For women, the sin of indulgence is the worst sin imaginable

The story of Eve and the story of my eating disorder are the same story, writes Kristen Zory King in Electric Lit. Raed on: 

I. Story & Sin

For eight years, I have been working on a story about the original sin.

It goes like this: Eve sits alone in a diner at the edge of town. Fluorescent lights glow off linoleum. The air is pale, sick. The narrator, omnipresent as the dense smell of the fryer, watches Eve, believes her grotesque. Eve’s face is ruddy and bloated. Her stomach spills over the tight waist of her jeans, her ankles swell and roll from the elastic top of her socks. There’s a smear of mashed potato on her shirt, something pink and dry crusted to the side of her mouth.

Her table is full of half eaten goods. Dozens of dishes sit before her, small bites taken out of each of them: meatloaf glazed with gravy, doughy crust on a chicken pot pie, a high stack of pancakes, eggs, now cold and stiff, fries smothered in thick, sweet ketchup. Despite this, she is unsatisfied.

This is not a woman we are meant to pity. She has everything she could want before her. And yet.

Here is where things fall apart. Enter the waitress, all yellowed nails, greased hair, dark stains on her teeth. She knows what this woman wants, knows the round taste of desire, the sweetness, relief in giving in. Over and over her quick pink tongue whispers temptation — cinnamon swirls, cream piled high on flakey crust, and, of course, tart, soft, delicious apples nestled in between it all.

This story has taken many forms. Sometimes I tell it as poem found in the words from a large blue Bible on my bookshelf. Sometimes it is a lyric, the pages stained thick and sticky with melodrama. It has been hurtful, helpful, biting, nonsensical. Sometimes what I write is good. Mostly it is bad. No matter what form it has taken, it has never quite worked.

Perhaps this — my need to tell this story, my inability to tell it — is because I started the story at age 19 and try as I might, I just can’t seem to make it less obvious. Woman as rib: clean, bare, sharp. Hunger as sin. The fat, clear juice of an apple rolling down the chin: lustful, obscene.

Woman as rib: clean, bare, sharp. Hunger as sin. The fat, clear juice of an apple rolling down the chin: lustful, obscene.

II. A Woman Takes A Bite
I stopped looking in mirrors at age 14. I avoided my reflection at all costs — not even a glance in a department store window, a flash into a bathroom mirror — knowing that each peek, no matter how brief, would result in a quick intake of breath, disgust. A conscious act of self preservation. It lasted a year.

I went on my first diet at age 8, after my cousins laughed at how tight my shirt fit across my belly, the “little buds” on my chest that refused to blossom. That summer marked a clear line from before to after, the awareness of my body sudden. I was growing quickly, horrified at the ways I was expanding, my flesh swelling around my bones. Although I did not yet fully understand the largesse of guilt, I was warm with shame each time my tiny stomach swelled with after-dinner pie from my grandmother or sweets from the corner store.

I went on another diet at 11, this time alongside my mother. The round curve of my adolescent belly was clear through my ballet leotard; I cried when the scale went from two digits to three. Sweat poured from my hairline down to my chin, from my armpits down the sides of my body, the humid July air made all the more unbearable by the heavy sweatshirt I wore to hide my body at all times.

Unconsciously, food became rapture, repulsion, something I thought of always, with agony and intense desire.

At age 17, I stopped eating altogether, save for one apple (Pink Lady, sweet, whole), one pepper (bell, yellow, sliced), and one nutrition bar (peppermint chocolate, dry) per day. Some days, after school I would break, coming back to myself only when my stomach was distended, my fingers, hands, wrists covered in crumbs from hours of binging. Despite my momentary lapses, this was the age that I was thinnest. The age I still hunger for while teetering on the periphery of recovery.

This trajectory is predictable to the point of boredom, known well by many. It goes on and on, journals full of calorie counting and loathing, years full of better, then worse, whatever “better” and “worse” mean. Even now it exists in my inability to walk into a room without comparing my own body to those around me. The tragedy is in the details (my teeth grew soft from acidic bile! I had a brief spell of religious fervor, hoping that perhaps through prayer, God would grant me a body tiny, delicate!). My disordered eating controlled every aspect of my life.

It comes as no surprise, then, to learn of my obsession with the creation story. A woman takes a bite and the whole world falls.

III. Two Facts and an Opinion
1. According to Mental Health America, roughly 20 million women and 10 million men currently suffer from eating disorders in the United States. This includes anorexia nervosa, bulimia nervosa, and binge eating disorder. The prevalence of eating disorders “is similar among Non-Hispanic whites, Hispanics, African-Americans, and Asians.” Eating disorders take many forms, transcend borders. They exist not, as is commonly believed, in a privileged, white, or even exclusively female world, but rather in collective agony for people of all backgrounds.

2. In 2015, the census reported the percentage of Christians in the United States at 75%. While that number is down from previous years, America still boasts the largest Christian population in the world. While certainly not all of these self-identified believers put faith fully in the story of creation, or any sort of God at all, they have no doubt been taught, at one point of another, about the fall of man, what came before, the consequence in after.

It is old and yet ever-present, this despair. Tertullian, often referred to as the “founder of Western Theology,” once declared to the women in his audience:

And do you not know that you are (each) an Eve? The sentence of God on this sex of yours lives in this age: the guilt must of necessity live too. You are the devil’s gateway: you are the unsealer of that (forbidden) tree: you are the first deserter of the divine law: you are she who persuaded him whom the devil was not valiant enough to attack.
I would venture to say that the numbers of reported eating disorders are a low estimate, made up of the lucky few who are able to seek help. How could they not be? We are surrounded by conceptions of womanhood directly perpetuated by this story. It’s on the periphery of comical, overt, obvious. But whether we are a product of our culture or our culture is a product of us, it is clear that the question of the female body, of what to do with female desire, is all-consuming.

Whether we are a product of our culture or our culture is a product of us, it is clear that the question of the female body, of what to do with female desire, is all-consuming.
One woman in my family bragged often of how, on the day of her wedding, she had a 20 inch waist. Another swung between a strict daytime diet of chalky protein shakes and evenings of chips covered in melted cheese. A girl in my grade would wake up at 4:00am to run for miles and miles every day and eat nothing all day but Diet Coke, her teeth quickly stained yellow. Another would quickly drink hot cups of coffee followed by cold water to tighten her belly as though it were full.

None of these women were ever diagnosed with an eating disorder although their eating was disordered. I myself was not diagnosed officially until age 25, more than fifteen years after I had begun to obsess over my body. When I told a friend, at age 15, that I was worried about how much I was binging and purging, she answered “Kris, we all do that.”

IV. Hollow, Hallowed
Once, I was on a diet that consisted almost exclusively of raw vegetables. An ambitious adolescent, I packed my days with after-school dance lessons, rehearsals for drama club, and a part-time job as a secretary at my ballet studio. So much of my life, of my eating disorder, looked on the outside like discipline. And in between my busy and demanding schedule it was easy to hide what I was — or rather, all that I wasn’t — eating.

On this particular diet, there was no bread allowed, no dessert, no dairy, rarely any fruit or sugar. I spent weekend mornings baking cookie after cake after muffin after pie. I didn’t eat any of it, not even the thick and creamy batter from the bottom of the bowls. Instead I would force my younger brother to eat the many loaves of banana bread, the fruit tarts, the snickerdoodles, sick with envy at his ability as a young boy to eat whatever he wanted, full on pride at my own restraint, and hollow — hallowed — hungry.

During this period, I remember reading a “helpful” trick on a “pro-ana/pro-mia” online forum — yes, you are eating a salad, some celery, a black cup of coffee (perhaps half full of vodka), but close your eyes. Pretend it is something you truly desire. Something sinful, forbidden. Feel all the ways it sits on your tongue, smell its soft sweetness as it enters your mouth, slides slowly down your throat.

And so I would. As I snapped carrot stick after carrot stick between my softened teeth, I would think instead of a banana split. I imagined the thick, creamy puddles each flavor would make as they melted together in an August heat. I fantasized about the hot fudge, heavy in the way it caressed each sugary mound. It was better than an orgasm, an early form of masturbation — the plumpness of the cherry, the whipped cream so light it would cloud the roof of my mouth, the tender grit of each chopped nut between my teeth.

Of course, this meal — chosen because it practically took more calories to chew than it conferred — tasted nothing like the sundae I imagined. I ate furiously, willing each bite to be what I wanted, chugged water until my stomach hurt, until I sobbed with the feeling of fullness, with the fact that not a single baby carrot, a single sip of water, satisfied my craving.

And in truth, no matter how good my imagination, nothing was as wonderful as the one thing I desired. I could have tasted a hundred things, let them all wallow in my mouth as I closed my eyes and pretended and nothing would have satisfied. Nothing would have tasted as sweet.

V. Bones
In the story, Eve looks over the bounty at her table and then shyly up at the waitress. She is ashamed of her own desire but understands she will not be able to taste anything she brings to her lips until she gives in. She is tired of fighting. Exhausting from rationalizing. It’s a fucking apple. It shouldn’t be this hard.

The waitress raises her pen to her pad — “All finished here, dear? Can I suggest some homemade pie a la mode for dessert? It’s just out of this world.”

And this is where I stop.

No matter how many iterations this story has taken, I am never able to continue past this point. I do not want Eve to be weak. I do not know what weak means. As writer, I could take control of this narrative. Give the woman what she wants, no matter what hell there is to pay. I could invert it, change the ending, let Eve taste the forbidden without consequence. Allow room for lust without fear of punishment.

No matter how many iterations this story has taken, I am never able to continue past this point. I do not want Eve to be weak. I do not know what weak means.
But I don’t, because that’s not the point. That’s not the world I live in, the reality I’ve been allowed. That’s not the story I’ve been told.

I am lucky. I have been given the ability to change my own fate (my own story, my own fall), and the tools to do so. I have a job that provides healthcare which allows for medication, weekly therapy sessions. I have a group of supportive friends who understand and give room for my many anxieties. I have a partner who, when we were first dating and I was unable to eat in front of him, would close his eyes and hold my hand while I tasted my meal. I have access to education that has taught me about my illness but also, importantly, so, so much about body positivity. I have a voice with which I can say: yeah, this whole apple-as-sin thing? Maybe I’m being too literal here, but that feels fucked up to me.

But many days there is only so much I can fight, only so much I am able to do, for myself and for other women, for the shame, constant and hot in our stomachs, for the consequences we are forced to bear for this hunger.

Over and over we are told the story of the fall — the banishment from heaven on earth because of one raw moment of wonder. One moment of lust. One moment of taking.

But if we are nothing but bone — a rib, made from man, made from earth, dirt, worms — then we are malleable. We have the ability to sharpen and indeed we are being sharpened day by day, whittled to a point by the rough edges that surround us. Perhaps one day, I will finish my story, give Eve what she desires, fearless of the consequence. Perhaps one day, I too, will be whittled. So sharp, I can cut off a piece of that god damn apple myself.

Wednesday, 2 January 2019

Beyond Bollywood: The best regional Indian films of 2018

Bollywood may have stolen the limelight with big ticket releases such as Zero and Thugs of Hindostan as well as hits like Andhadhun and Badhaai Ho, but the regional movie industries have some gems to share. Whether it’s Tamil, Punjabi or Marathi titles, here’s a list of regional films from India that you shouldn’t miss.

Vada Chennai (Tamil)

This gangster saga of epic proportions is set in North Chennai and has Dhanush as Anbu, a carrom champion whose fate leads him to become a thug. The movie follows his trials and tribulations as he is placed as a pawn in a deadly game. There's love, there's betrayal and above all, there's a story that is magnificently told by director Vetrimaran. The cast also boasts of Ameer, Kishore, Samuthirakani, Aishwarya Rajesh, Daniel Balaji and Andrea Jeremiah, who is the dark horse in this narrative.

Pyaar Prema Kaadhal (Tamil)

In an interesting take on modern-day relationships, here we encounter Sree, a man smitten by Sindhuja, his colleague. Their friendship turns into a live-in relationship, after which things go downhill. Director Elan succeeds where many have failed previously. He manages to create a strong female protagonist and explores the dynamics as well as vulnerabilities of love through a prism rarely used before.

Savarakathi (Tamil)

A superb movie where multiple genres melt subtly. We see director Ram playing barber Pichai who gets into a skirmish with a local don Manga (a brilliant Mysskin, who has also written and produced this alongside his brother GR Adithya who is the director). The don swears revenge and the barber's 15 minutes of bravado results in him having to run for his life. Laced with humour, the film also touches you as it shows a common man trying to protect his family while fending off a ferocious enemy.

Merku Thodarchi Malai (Tamil)

A farmer has only one dream — to buy a piece of land. It comes true but the path from there is not easy. Directed by Lenin Bharati and produced by Vijay Sethupathi, the movie tries to become the voice of the voiceless and expose the truth about the sufferings of farmers. Exquisitely shot and beautifully told, the film comes at a perfect time when farmer protests across the country have finally grabbed the attention they deserve.

Sudani from Nigeria (Malayalam)

In probably one of the finest feel-good movies in recent times, director Zakariya Mohammed shows the relationship between Majid, a football manager and his player, Samuel. Their bond grows when Samuel starts staying with Majid's family after getting injured. Soubin Shahir excels as Majeed while Nigerian actor Samuel Abiola Robinson is perfectly cast as Samuel. But it is the motherly figures of Savithri and Sarasa stay with you much after the movie ends.

Swathanthryam Ardharathriyil (Malayalam)

It starts a slow and suddenly Swathanthryam Ardharathriyil makes you sit back and pay attention. Probably the finest prison break drama in India, it features Angamaly Diaries’ Anthony Verghese as well as Vinayakan and Chemban Vinod Jose. There’s not a single dull moment once the movie picks up pace and you have a solid, nail-biting thriller in front of you. Tinu Pappachan, a long-time collaborator of Lijo Jose Pellissery, makes his directorial debut with this movie and delivers. We’re sure Bollywood’s going to take notice as well.

Eeda (Malayalam)

Set in the Kannur district of Malabar, this is a story filled with political intrigue that takes its inspiration from Romeo and Juliet. Here the couple in question belong to two rival parties. Things get heated and blood spills as the young couple try to defy odds and lead a life together. Director B Ajithkumar, who is also a National-award winning editor, leads a credible cast featuring the talented Shane Nigam and Nimisha Vijayan and delivers a narrative rich in metaphors.

Goodachari (Telugu)

Adivi Sesh has made a name for himself for coming up with stylish movies rich in content. If Kshanam was a watershed moment for the Telugu film industry, Goodachari takes it one step ahead with its story as well as the execution. This time Adivi Sesh plays a spy who finds himself at the receiving end of the very organisation he wishes to serve after he is falsely accused of a grievous crime. Now he has to clear his name but time is running out. In an era of rampant jingoism, director Sashi Kiran Tikka's Goodachari comes as a breath of fresh air.

Naal (Marathi)

Probably one of the finest Marathi movies in recent times, Naal is worth the watch because of its meticulous treatment of a subject that evokes emotions like nothing else. Chaitanya is a little child who is raised in his maternal house. He is a curious kid and director Sudhakar Reddy Yakkanti gives us a glimpse of his world that changes when he comes across a certain truth. Naal has been produced by Nagraj Manjule who also stars in it.

Daana Paani (Punjabi)

This movie might not match up to the grandeur and scale of some of its regional counterparts, but it is a heart-warming tale that deserves credit mainly because of its story and some brilliant performances. Directed by Tarnvir Singh Jagpal, this has Jimmy Shergill playing a soldier during the Indo-Chinese conflict of 1962. He returns to his village carrying a piece of news that changes his life forever. Daana Paani's laurels are multiple but most importantly it makes you reconnect with your roots.

Katheyondu Shuruvagide (Kannada)

Kannada movies have had some kind of rejuvenation in the recent years and Katheyondu Shurivagide is another glorious addition to this. The romantic drama shows the relationship between a resort owner and his guest. Things happen unexpectedly and sparks fly and right when you are about to dismiss it as just another regular love story it becomes a matured take on a cliched theme. Director Senna Hegde, along with leads Diganth and Pooja Devariya, has come up with a breezy romantic entertainer that also teaches you something valuable about love and life.

C/O Kancharapalem (Telugu)


This charming little gem of a movie, made on shoe-string budget, is about the various facets of love and its ever changing nature. Incredibly done and masterfully narrated, C/O Kancharapalem has been directed by debutant Maha Venkatesh who makes sure the audience is also involved in the journey undertaken by the characters and that it is one worth remembering. A year where we saw several behemoths biting dust at the box-office, this movie assures that Indian cinema is in safe hands.

(Source: The Quint)

One missing piece

Returns can betray our memory and reveal something new, a different image, a disappointment, a recital of disappearances, writes Jill Talbot, the author of The Way We Weren’t: A Memoir and Loaded: Women and Addiction, in The Paris Review. Read on: 

Some places call us back. This past summer, my daughter and I returned to Canton, New York, where we lived five years ago, approximately twenty miles south of the Canadian border. It was her choice—her favorite of all the places we’ve lived. And while she deserved to go where she wanted after our devastating year and a half, I worried how we would feel when we saw the house again, and how I might experience those spots I now associate with absence, with loss. But I knew we needed to get away before another year began, a year neither one of us was ready to face.

*

Years come and go, regardless. This much we had learned quickly.

*

We flew from Dallas to Syracuse and drove the hours north through memory—those two lanes bordered by trees—a green tunnel, a secret path, a shadow. After thirty miles on I-81, I pointed out the Pulaski exit and pulled into the parking lot of the motel we had stayed in five years ago. It had been our last stop on a cross-country move from Oklahoma to New York, during which we spent nights in large hotels in Indiana, Ohio, and Buffalo—but up here the motels spread rather than rise. They are quaint and quiet, small, with one car parked in front of a door over here, another over there. We were not here to stay, only to revisit.

It was early August 2013 when I checked us into the one-story motel in Pulaski, a bell on the counter in the lobby (ring once!). We had been living in Oklahoma for four years, the longest we had lived anywhere. I was trading one visiting professor position for another, but instead of teaching four sections of composition at a state university, I would be teaching only three classes each semester, and all of them creative writing workshops at a private liberal arts institution.

I remember how my parents, having both lived in Texas their whole lives, feared they’d never see us again when I told them where we were moving.

Before checkout the next afternoon, my daughter and I swam in the pool out front, the one with a floor of tiny tiles, a bright-blue mosaic. I knew I wasn’t ready to get back on the road and drive us to our new life. I wanted to linger, to stare into the sunny sky, to stay between, so when my daughter noticed a pizza place across the highway before jumping into the water, I pulled a T-shirt over my suit and headed across the parking lot toward the lobby. I rang the bell. Paid for another night.

*

The afternoon we returned to Pulaski was cloudy, the pool covered with a dusty green tarp. My daughter, now sixteen, stepped out of the rental car to take a photo of the motel sign and its marquee (FISHERMEN WELCOME). Before pulling away, we both looked back to see the room where we slept in the Red Carpet Inn (the motel only beiges and browns), and I remembered a laminated list on top of the TV offering instructions for cleaning the fish visitors caught in the Salmon River, the river we drove over on the way out of town, the rumble of the white-rapid rocks beyond the bridge reminding us how much we missed living among rivers.

*

I have lived here and there, all over, really, and there are some cities I’d rather leave in the rearview mirror, but after enough time, the lens of memory loses focus on some things, fixes on others.

*

I once visited a good friend in Champaign, Illinois. He and I walked around the university campus and the city, turned a corner toward a thrift store, and came upon a rickety, faded wooden staircase (only five steps) in the middle of an abandoned field. He had named it the Staircase to Nowhere. Not long after my visit, he moved to Virginia. Is the staircase still there? Are we, somehow? Surely.

*

Sometimes a direction calls us from the distance. For me, it’s always been west. I imagine getting on I-20 in Dallas and driving 229 miles before hitting 84, the two lanes that veer northwest just after the small town of Sweetwater for another 120 or so. I imagine pushing the pedal all the way down that flat road, the horizon a razor, the slow pump of oil jacks dotting the dusty landscape.

I’m thinking of the corner of Toledo and Sixty-Third in Lubbock, Texas, the house where I lived from the ages of six to eight, when I would wander the sidewalks or take off on my Bicentennial Huffy (Star Spangler).

Even then, I carried a stillness.

I can see our orange VW bug in the drive, can watch my father and me race Popsicle sticks in the gutter after every storm. Or I can stand in the backyard and call my mom to come out and see the mud pies I made on top of the doghouse using her tin pie plates.

Would the bur oak still stand, full of green, across the street? Would the sidewalk—the one where my black dog, Skeeter, let me rest my head on her back while I stared through the aperture in the leaves—have shrunk? Would it come back to me, what I told her on those afternoons? Would missing my parents be more acute on that corner? Would it feel like a rush of rainwater after a sudden downpour, a fast-moving river against a curb of grief?

*

I have too many questions. Here’s another:

*

Do we ever go anywhere but alone? At the end of each day during our trip in Canton, my daughter and I sat on the balcony of our hotel room to compare the photographs we had taken throughout the day. I wasn’t surprised that our views of the same landmarks shifted, angles altered, proof that we remembered each rock outcropping, each road, even our old house in different ways. Our images, our memories separate, private.

One night out there in the dark, I asked her what she thought the most obvious quality of my mother’s had been. She paused for a long time before answering, “I think we knew two different women.”

Why borrow a view from her that isn’t mine?

And why project my own portrait, one she can’t possibly recognize?

No one else could know what I saw on that trip, when I stood in front of a closed restaurant, or on the bridge overlooking the Grasse River, or in the backyard looking toward the duplex next door. My daughter, I knew, had her own places she needed to revisit in that town. But those are not mine to tell.

*

Thirty miles after leaving Pulaski, I turned onto Route 11 to an expanse of bending fields, Amish farms, vegetable stands, silos, small (population two thousand) villages, and the Oswegatchie River.  When I saw the city-limits sign for Philadelphia, New York, I knew it was coming up on the left and told my daughter to look out for a red-and-white gas station, a corner convenience store I remembered having a pay phone on the wall near the entrance and red booths along the window. I parked the rental and followed my daughter into the store, and while she went to the back for a grape soda, I took photographs of the pay phone and the booths.


There’s a scene in the memoir I published in 2015 of me calling a man from that pay phone, then sitting in one of those booths, watching the traffic and the customers come and go for a long time. A line something like: “I wasn’t going anywhere.” The man was my daughter’s father, someone I had not seen or heard from since he left the summer she was four months old. That evening, I emailed the photos of the pay phone and the red booths to a friend. She wrote back: “Evidence of time travel.”

*

So much of writing involves then, after, when.

*

Once, when I was living in Stillwater, Oklahoma, an old boyfriend from grad school called to say he was coming through town on his way to a business trip. Could I meet him for a drink? So we sat close on bar stools and grazed legs, our hands always somewhere on a forearm or a knee, and he told me he was getting married in a month, and his fiancée forbade (he used that word) me from coming to the wedding. Hours later, when he dropped me off at my apartment, we got out of his car and met in front of it, kissing and whispering for a long time in the sad glare of the headlights.

I wonder who watched us from a window or a balcony that night, who saw me stranded in the middle of the lot after he drove away, nodding no, no, no.

Coming into Canton, we drove slowly past the line of storefronts—Nature’s Storehouse, the art gallery, law offices, two pizza places next to each other, and Look, there’s where the Blackbird Café used to be!—before rolling past the square. I drove as slowly as traffic would allow, in part to let our memories adjust their focus with what we saw outside the car windows, but also in part to hesitate, to delay those memories waiting a few blocks down the road. We crossed the railroad tracks and drove through the rows of two-story clapboard houses on either side until we could see it up on the left. The house we lived in for two years.

My daughter had been ten, eleven then, still a little girl with a blonde bob and neon clothes and the same always-alert face. The house was cream with a red door and a large tree out front. The tire swing some of my students had put up for her back then was gone. The three large boulders lining the gravel drive, gone. And the garage door raised about an inch, as if it wouldn’t close all the way.

*

Returns can betray our memory and reveal something new, a different image, a disappointment, a recital of disappearances.

*

When we lived there, a shaggy-haired man in a red shirt, jeans, and flat sneakers spent his days walking up and down the sidewalks of Main Street, Route 11. Sometimes I’d pass him smoking on the bench outside the liquor store, or see him crossing the street at the square, or shuffling in the direction of the university, and once, perched on one of the boulders in our yard.

Back then, I had a colleague with an office next door in the English building and a duplex next door to me on Main Street. We took turns crossing the yard to each other’s places, spent hours talking about writers in our field and each other’s work, or we’d meet at the bar at the hotel or at a restaurant called the Club, just off the square.

Back then, on the day I moved out of my third-floor office, I etched a secret message for my favorite students—the ones who would be beginning their senior year—on the bottom of my office door.

*

After all my wanderings and the eleven states my daughter and I have moved into and out of, we now live in an apartment about an hour from the Dallas suburb where I spent most of my childhood.

The devastating past year and a half began with my father’s unexpected death in January. Three months later, my mother was diagnosed with stage IV ovarian cancer and told she had six to twelve months to live. She made it eleven, and one early April morning, my daughter and I each held one of her hands as she left us. Now my daughter and I make the drive back to my parents’ house every other week or so to take care of things, to feel close to them. I stand at the butcher-block kitchen counter, the one I leaned over to talk to my mother while she cooked. Or I stand in the middle of the living room, where I stood my ground as my father yelled at me, more than once, for missing curfew, for being wild, for being on the phone after my mother told me to get off. Or I stand in the door frame of their bedroom, where I whispered I’m home at eleven thirty on weekend nights in high school. Or I stand in the pool, still doing flips and handstands in my late forties, wishing Mom and Dad would come out the patio door to squint in the sun and clap as my daughter dives off the board.

*

That man who kissed me in the apartment lot in the headlights, the one who married, the one who continued to call on every birthday and holiday, the one who shared my “we have all the time in the world” thinking? He died on a bike trail three years later in Houston.

I always imagine making the trip to that trail, choosing a tree, wondering whether it’s this curve or that one over there.

Someone makes a choice, so we say nothing.

Then we don’t pick up the phone that last time, ring after ring.

We live with a spot on a bike trail we’ve never seen. We see it anyway. Every day.

I say we. What I mean: a lifelong apology for I.

*

In Canton, the disappearances grew sharper, severe. Reality grew hazy. I never saw the man in the red shirt, even though I searched for him. And when I climbed the three flights of stairs to my office and got on the floor to take a photo of the message, it was gone. And my dear friend. He had passed the August before in a hospital in Ohio at the age of forty-one.

But maybe it was my memory that had become hazy, for when I stood in the yard of our old house, I had planned to take a photo of the field behind the duplex. It was the scene of my friend’s author photo, a stark gray-and-white portrait, his head bent in contemplation, his coat long and black, the North Country snow falling silver across the craggy branches around him. I thought My friend once stood there, and I turned away. To take a photograph, to even look for too long at the space felt like a betrayal, an invasion, a theft.

*

I’m thinking of those places where thousands, millions have been before, and how we all stand with our own stories, secrets, private histories like stones in a belfry, silent without the bell—

Before paintings in museums. On a star along the Hollywood Walk of Fame. A grassy knoll. The top of the Empire State Building. Under the Bean in Chicago’s Millennium Park. The North Rim of the Grand Canyon. In the middle of a bridge on the San Antonio River Walk. On the steps of the Lincoln Memorial. In front of the Hemingway house (take your pick which one). On a shore between the sand and the sea. Signing the brick wall outside Graceland. Under a state’s welcome sign on the highway. On a Seattle corner featured in our favorite sitcom. Silent around a memorial fountain in New York City.

*

Every September or October, my father took me to the State Fair of Texas in Dallas, and, later, he took me and my daughter. He always followed the same route, from the entrance to Big Tex, to Fletcher’s Corn Dogs, then onto the automobile building and the food building, on and on, always leaving with a bag of malt balls and handing some eager kid the handful of tickets we didn’t use on our way to the exit.

When my daughter and I returned last year without him, we followed the route we had memorized, and we stopped in front of Big Tex and took a selfie. How could any of those groups of friends, those families, those kids struggling to be free from their strollers imagine, on such a bright autumn afternoon, that our photo was a tradition turned mourning? That the shutter closed on an ache?

Last year, over two million people passed through the gates of the Texas State Fair, an average of 100,000 a day, but for my daughter and me, we felt only an absence. We held hands almost the entire two-hour stay, squeezing when we came to a spot—in front of a Skee-Ball lane, in the ice cream sample line, or stepping into a car at the haunted house ride—where he once stood.

I haven’t mentioned how my daughter and I almost died in that cream house with the red door.

*

Just as we assumed it would be in mid-July, the house was vacant, a university-owned property waiting for the next professor who would, most likely, move in in August. Standing in the yard for the first time in five years, I saw us leave out the front door on a late October afternoon and stumble down the three front steps and weave across the thick layer of leaves. I saw myself on the sidewalk, struggling to stand, waving down cars while my daughter vomited into the grass. I saw a police officer standing by my bed in the ER asking whether we had been in the car, in the garage. Days later, I listened to a firefighter explain that a split chimney in the basement created carbon monoxide levels over 300 p.p.m. on the third floor (where my daughter and her friend played the day before), along with 250 p.p.m. in the main level of the house (where the heater ran all night and well beyond noon, where I fainted in the kitchen, where my daughter sweated in a deep sleep). At sustained levels of carbon monoxide concentrations above 150, disorientation, unconsciousness, and death are possible. Carbon monoxide had been churning through the house for over a month from a split chimney in the basement.

After a few silent moments, we moved to the backyard. My daughter discovered the door open and hopped over the three steps to the breezeway, ignoring my protests that we were trespassing. Determined, she went to the door to the kitchen, the one with the window we broke one freezing night when we were locked out. She snapped photo after photo, and when I asked from the yard whether it looked the same, she shook her head no. What, I wondered, had it looked like to her back then?

Later that night on our hotel balcony, she showed me her photos of the kitchen, the stove moved to a different wall, the hallway, one shot of the living room. I couldn’t look at them long. While I did see moments of us living there—our red couch, the column in the kitchen where I marked her height, the door to her bedroom, the black-framed mirror in the bathroom, and the kitchen table where I wrote every morning—I also saw us almost dying, two huddled figures barely moving through that living room on our way out.

*

A few years ago in New Mexico, we lived in the oldest adobe house on the west side, which, we were often told, was a part of town visited only on a dare, dangerous. We didn’t have to be told: the alley running beyond us was a trail of homeless wanderers searching our trash for bottles, or patients from the mental hospital gesticulating and shouting at passing cars, or kids ditching school on their way to the drug house on the corner, and once, screaming, years-of-hurt screaming. Four in the morning. I pulled the curtains back from the window in my room to see the woman from next door pacing the alley under the dim streetlight. This after months of no movement at her house—locked doors, closed windows, as though she’d moved out or died, OD’d. But that night, I watched her dark hair dripping down her dingy hoodie, her jagged fingernails dangling a cigarette, her shoulders two knots cinched tight. Screaming. I go back to this window again and again in my mind and shudder. What had hold of her, and why did I stand there for so long, witnessing something I’d rather not know?

*

Back home in Texas, my car, the same one I was driving when we lived in Canton, still has my blue-and-white faculty-parking sticker in the left corner, above the registration.  In the glove box, I keep the garage door opener from the house there because I forgot to leave it in the mailbox along with the keys. My faculty parking expired in August 2016, but we left at the end of June 2013, while my friend waved from his front yard until we could no longer see him in our rearview mirrors.

*

We took the garage door opener on the trip, and as we approached the gravel drive that first day, we stopped on the sidewalk, counted to three, and I pushed the button. Nothing.

*

With each special occasion—first day of school, a dance, an award ceremony—I’ve always taken a picture of my daughter to send my mother. We use the same spot outside our apartment, a small ledge at the top of the steps leading to the courtyard, a nice backdrop, a variegated stone wall, a tree.  Toward the end of school this past year, when the first special occasion arrived weeks after her grandmother passed, I offered to follow my daughter out to take her picture. After a quiet “No, thanks,” she made her way to the car, and I understood. She would never stand in that spot again.

*

In Canton, while my daughter spent time at a friend’s she had not seen in years, I went back to the places that were my own—a running trail along Riverside Drive, the aisles of the bookstore on campus, the café in the student union where I’d get my favorite tea each morning before teaching. Then I drove to the Club, but it had closed, for good (the week before, I later learned). A FOR SALE sign out front. I half-heartedly took a few photos, because the one I planned to take was of the oak bar inside, the stools where my colleague, my neighbor, my friend, and I sat at least once a week, taking turns buying pints. I drove back to the hotel. At the bar, I ordered sauvignon blanc, honoring a night years before when he came over to the house, and I drank too much chardonnay. The next morning, I left an apology note propped against his screen door, admitting that chardonnay sometimes took me down dark roads. He emailed a reply within the hour: “That’s why I drink sauvignon blanc.”

I took a picture of our table and later converted it to black and white: the curved chair where I sat alone, lipstick imprint on my glass, the wine gleaming in the afternoon light from the window.

*

On our last day, we had one final place to go: the rock embankment along the Grasse River, where my daughter and I used to stop on our walks through the wooded trail behind campus. She quickly wandered off to put her feet into the water and take photos, my favorite of a tiny frog in the water between two rocks.

At every body of water, she and I have always thrown rocks, one for ourselves, and one for friends, making a wish for each one. We couldn’t find the smaller stones that had once been along the embankment, so we climbed the path to the bridge above and gathered them along the way.

In the middle of the bridge, I set down several rocks on the railing, and I began.

For the friend in Prague whose latest collection of short stories had just come out. Plunk.

For the friend back home who recently upended her life to dare a new one. Plunk.

For my daughter. Plunk.

For myself. Plunk.

For a better year. Plunk.

Throwing rocks has always been a solitary ceremony, even though we stand side by side. We always keep their meanings to ourselves. But this time, with three more rocks to throw, I announced each one:

For Dad.

For Mom.

For William.

My daughter stopped with each break of my voice.

The last afternoon, before heading back to the airport in Syracuse, I drove past the house to see a work truck and a man unloading paint cans into the garage, another securing the railings of the porch. It was unsettling, seeing someone else in the drive, but I was glad to see the house being taken care of. It looked exactly the way it had when we lived there,  even the curtains I put up in the breezeway window to match the front door still hung on the sagging rod.

I filled up at the gas station on the corner and returned to the hotel, where we took our time packing and double-checking before we reluctantly walked out, dragging our suitcases behind. Heading east on Route 11, we passed the house one more time, the workers gone.

Wait, look!

My daughter pointed out the new 89, the address to the right of the garage. The workers must have placed it before they left.

“Sweet house,” my daughter said, and I agreed, felt the lens of memory lose focus and adjust, to fix on—

the time the heat went out and we cuddled in sleeping bags to watch Thirteen Going On Thirty on my laptop, the mornings I watched her climb the steps of the school bus before I settled at the kitchen table to write, the way we had cheese pizzas from Sergi’s delivered so often that the boxes stacked up in our breezeway, the way we sat outside and read in our white Adirondack chairs on the porch, the months we worked on that thousand-piece puzzle of the New Yorker cover only to discover it had one missing piece. We never found it.

Tuesday, 1 January 2019

Happy New Year 2019

I lost so many things which very very dear to me in 2018, have been on a very rough road but also learned the biggest lesson.


Looking forward to better days in 2019.


History, myths and lesser-known facts about Kashi or Varanasi – the world’s oldest city

There are some cities which are respected at the very mention of their name. Period. We are talking about Varanasi. One of the world’s oldest cities. However, do not go to this city, if you are not a worthy traveler. The city is old, and still retains the ancient charm of paying respect to God via the traditional methods and the cremation of dead bodies at the Ghats. It has a history of 3500 years. Come, let us know about the history and facts about Kashi in detail on today’s read.

Varanasi will always occupy prime importance in Hindu religion. It is said, that a Hindu has to go on a pilgrimage to Kashi at least once in their lifetime. In short, Kashi or Varanasi is to a Hindu what Mecca is to Islam and Vatican to a Christian.

Yantra means a machine. According to Sadguru, this Kashi is a large human machine without inertia. Shiva is a yogi and his favorite number is 5. So they built the city along the lines of 5. The fundamental geometry of Kashi is to connect the microcosm and macros. So, they designed 468 temples. The basic temples are 54 for Shiva, the same number for Shakthi.


History and Facts about Kashi
Everything in creation is a part of the cosmos itself. The history of Kashi is documented right from 3500 years ago. In short, the city has existed even when Athens had not laid its foundation for glory. In fact, this holy place existed even when Rome was just a city and Egypt was not even formed. Spelling the name “Kashi” brings vibration in the human body. In fact, the city is best described as a place where the micro (human) can connect with the macro (cosmos).

In the ancient Indian cities, places were differentiated for every activity. For washing clothes, there is the dhobi ghat; for bathing, there used to be a separate place and for cremation of bodies, there was the graveyard. In ancient Hindu texts, the city is referred to as Maha Smashana (large cremation ground). True to the name, the Manikarnika Ghat gets about 300 human bodies daily for cremation.

Also known as Benares and Kashi, this city is located on the banks of River Ganga. The name has been derived from the rivers of Varuna as well Assi tributaries where the city is located.

Importance – What You Should Know About Varanasi

  • Near Varanasi, there is an area known as Sarnath. Buddha delivered his first sermon after enlightenment.
  • Adi Shankaracharya has written Kasi Panchakam, a tribute to the city.
  • This city holds prominence as being the birthplace of at least four Jain Tirthankaras. They are Suparshvanath (7th), Chandraprabhu (8th), Shreyanshnath (11th) and Parshvanath (23rd).
  • Tulsi Das composed the evergreen Hanuman Chalisa and Ramcharitmanas in Kashi.
  • The guardian deity of Kashi is Kaal Bhairav. His image – a thick mustache, vahana is a dog, has a tiger skin as cloth, holds a sword by the right hand and the head of a demon on the other hand.

Varanasi is the city of temples. You have them in every nook and corner. Among the famous, Kashi Vishwanath Temple stands tall. Also prominent are Durga Temple, Mahadev Temple, Bharat Mata Temple etc. There is no city in the world which has a hundred ghats. And there are three types; the bathing ghats, cremation sites and praying ghats.

Evening Aarti – The topmost activity that a traveler should never miss is the glorious Evening Arati of Kashi. It is one moment that you will cherish forever. The rituals unfolding for the Lord is a treat to watch. The lamps (made of brass) come to 4.5 kilograms.


Weavers Village – One of the famous sarees of this city is the Banarasi Saree made of gold, silver and popular for its zari.

Prior to five decades, and even today, many Indian people have the notion that a bath in the Ganges will relieve the past diseases. This can be true to a certain extent. Before Ganga becomes a river, there is a place called the Gangotri. Before this place, the river water passes through mountains and valleys. Maybe, when the water passes through certain herbal plants, it may acquire medicinal properties. But now, Ganga has become polluted. People from the other Indian States come to take water away in small containers, stating that whoever is given a drop of Ganga water on their deathbed will attain salvation.

Facts About Kashi You Should Definitely Know About
The temple of Kashi Vishwanath is so old that it has been stated in the Skanda Purana. A legend goes like Lord Shiva’s mother-in-law was worried that her son-in-law does not have an abode. For his wife, Goddess Parvati, Lord Shiva asked the demon, Nikumbha to make a place suitable for his family at Kashi.

In this place, the Mother was so pleased that she offered food to everybody, the reason, she is worshipped as Annapoorani. In fact, Lord Shiva is known to be the Master of all in Shaiva literature. But the Lord himself seeks food from the Devi, that too, in a begging bowl. In fact, this place is considered to be one among the 52 Shakthipeedams (Kashi is the place where the Sakthi’s left arm fell after the body was cut by Sudarshana Chakra of Lord Vishnu).


An ancient Indian legend has it, on the day of creation of Mother Earth, the first light ray was shown to Kashi. There are also other legends which state that Lord Shiva actually stayed in the city in the form of  “Lord Kalabhairava” as the guardian of the city.

War Between Brahma and Vishnu
Do you know the famous war between Brahma and Vishnu about who is Supreme? And the wager to see the depth and height of Lord Shiva? Lord Shiva assumed the form of bright light which penetrated heavens and hell. He told Vishnu and Brahma to find the height and source. Brahma, in the form of a goose, flew to the sky. Vishnu, in the form of a boar, dug into the earth. Even though they searched for eons, they could not find the end of the light. Vishnu felt humbled and accepted defeat. But Brahman, unwilling to accept defeat, asked the Ketaki flower which dropped from Lord Shiva’s head to serve as a witness that he has seen the end. During the conversation with Lord Shiva, while Vishnu asked for pardon, Brahma lied. The angry Lord cursed Brahma that he will never be worshipped on Earth.

Lord Shiva also severed Brahma’s fifth head. After Shiva killed Brahma in the form of Kaalbhairava, he was cursed with Brahma-Hatya. The fifth head clung to his left hand. All efforts to remove the head proved futile. KaalBhairava wandered along the banks of River Ganga southwards. At a certain position, the river turned towards North and he entered Kashi. When he dipped his left hand in the river, the head unclung from his hand and he was liberated. This place became Kashi as told by the legend.

The city stands on the trident of Shiva
There is another myth which states that the city stands on the trident of Shiva. In short, Kashi is not on Mother Earth, it stands above the ground. There are three temples which act as the three points for the trident. They are Aumkareshwara in the North, Vishweshwara in the middle and Kedareshwara in the South.

As per local folklore, there are eight Kaal Bhairavs who guard the city; Ashta Dikkugalu. The temple for these Gods are present in eight cardinal directions and protect the sanctity of the Kashi Vishwanath temple.  In fact, this city is believed to be the abode of Lord Shiva. It is widely rumored that before death, Lord Shiva whispers Tarak mantra in the dead man’s ears to attain salvation.


There is another myth regarding Garudas and lizards. But it is true. Never in the city, an eagle will fly nor the lizards will make the sound. The story unfolds during the time when Rama killed Ravana. To atone for his sins, he wanted to perform puja to a swayambu lingam. He entrusted the task to Lord Hanuman. When Hanuman entered the city, the garuda and lizard helped him identify the linga. But he took the linga without seeking permission of the protective deity of the city, Kaal Bhairava. A fierce battle happened which was cut short by the Gods. Kaal Bhairava, in his anger, cursed the Garuda to not fly over the city, and lizard to not make the sound. The words hold true even to the present day.

History of Kashi Vishwanath Temple
In fact, the temple of Lord Shiva, known as Kashi Vishwanath Temple is known as one among the 12 Jyotirlingas. The other Jyotirlingas are Somnath in Gujarat, Mallikarjuna in Andhra Pradesh, Mahakaleshwar in Madhya Pradesh, Omkareshwar in Madhya Pradesh, Kedarnath (Uttarakhand), Bhimashankar (Maharashtra), Triambakeshwar (Maharashtra), Vaidyanath Jyotirlinga in Deogarh, Jharkhand, Nageswar (Gujarat), Rameshwar (Tamil Nadu), and Grishneshwar (Maharashtra).

Importance of Kasi Vishwanath Temple
You find rarely a temple or a religious place in any country ravaged many times, only to be built again. The present temple stands a little distance from the original site. It was built by Ahilya Bai Holkar and the gold for the dome was contributed by Maharaja Ranjeet Singh of Punjab.

In the temple, you can find numerous shrines of various Gods. The temple has been built in the form of a quadrangle. Numerous small temples shroud the complex. You can find temples of Dhandapani, Vishnu, Sanishwara, Virupaksha, Avimukteshwara and many more. Because of its importance, the temple gets nearly 3000 devotees daily. On a special occasion, the number can increase to 100000.


The small well in the temple is popular by the name of Jnana Vapi. At the time of invasion from the Moghuls, the Main priest jumped in the well along with Shiv Ling. There may be many temples in the world, but rarely will the deity be performed aarti five times. The duration of this auspicious activity,  every day in the temple are conducted as follows –

Mangala Aarti – At 3 AM in the Morning. It extends till 4 AM

Bhoga Aarti – From 11.15 AM to 12.20 PM

Sandhya Aarti – As the name suggests – it takes place in the evening. 7 PM to 8.15 PM

Shringara Aarti – it extends after evening from 9 PM to 10.15 PM.

Shayana Aarti – In the last hours of the evening. 10.30 PM to 11 PM.

If Delhi is the capital of India, then Varanasi can be called as the spiritual capital of our country. In fact, till the last century, it was believed, that if anyone died in Kashi, their soul goes to Heaven and there will be no rebirth. If they cannot die in Kashi, at least their human bodies if cremated in the holy place can make the soul attain salvation.

(Source: Metro Saga)