Silent Valley National Park: Exploring Kerala's Pristine Wilderness

Nestled in the lap of the Western Ghats in Kerala, India, Silent Valley National Park is a true haven for nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers. With its lush greenery, untouched wilderness, and diverse ecosystem, this magnificent park offers a unique opportunity to disconnect from the chaos of city life and reconnect with nature. In this travel article, we embark on a virtual journey to Silent Valley National Park, uncovering its breathtaking landscapes, rich biodiversity, and the importance of preserving this ecological gem.

A Paradise of Greenery:

As you step foot into Silent Valley National Park, you are greeted by a mesmerizing panorama of dense rainforests, mist-covered peaks, and gushing waterfalls. The park gets its name from the profound silence that engulfs the area, thanks to the absence of motorized vehicles. The lush greenery is a visual treat, with towering trees, vibrant ferns, and colorful orchids adorning the forest floor. The air is filled with the scent of wildflowers and the sounds of birdsong, creating a serene atmosphere that transports you to a different world.

Exploring the Flora and Fauna:

Silent Valley National Park is a biodiversity hotspot, home to an incredible array of plant and animal species. The park boasts a mix of evergreen, semi-evergreen, and deciduous forests, providing a diverse habitat for wildlife. As you embark on a guided trek, you may come across elusive creatures like the lion-tailed macaque, Malabar giant squirrel, and Nilgiri langur. The park is also home to a variety of bird species, making it a paradise for birdwatchers. Keep an eye out for the Malabar trogon, the great Indian hornbill, and the endangered Ceylon frogmouth.

The flora of Silent Valley is equally captivating. Witness the grandeur of the towering rosewood and teak trees, the delicate beauty of orchids and lilies, and the intricate patterns of ferns and mosses. The park is also known for its rare and endemic plant species, including the Silent Valley fan palm and the Nilgiri tangle fern. A visit to Silent Valley National Park is an opportunity to witness nature's exquisite craftsmanship up close.

Trekking through Pristine Trails:

For adventure enthusiasts, Silent Valley National Park offers an extensive network of trekking trails that allow you to explore its pristine wilderness. The most popular trek is the Sairandhri Trail, a 23-kilometer route that takes you deep into the heart of the park. As you navigate through the dense forests, you will encounter breathtaking viewpoints, gurgling streams, and cascading waterfalls. The Kuntipuzha River, with its crystal-clear waters, provides a refreshing spot for a quick dip or a peaceful picnic.

Another notable trail is the Kunthi Betta Trek, which takes you to the highest peak in Silent Valley National Park. The challenging ascent rewards you with panoramic views of the surrounding valleys and the opportunity to witness the sunrise or sunset in all its glory.

Conservation and Sustainable Tourism:

Silent Valley National Park holds immense ecological significance and is considered one of the last remaining tracts of undisturbed tropical evergreen forests in India. Efforts have been made to protect and preserve this ecological gem, and visitors are encouraged to engage in sustainable tourism practices. Strict regulations and guidelines are in place to ensure minimal impact on the fragile ecosystem. Travelers are advised to follow designated trails, avoid littering, and respect the park's rules and regulations.

Additionally, taking part in guided tours and interacting with local communities allows visitors to understand the importance of conservation efforts and the symbiotic relationship between humans and nature.

Silent Valley National Park stands as a testament to the wonders of nature and the importance of preserving our fragile ecosystems. A visit to this pristine wilderness offers an opportunity to reconnect with the natural world, witness rare and endemic species, and immerse yourself in the tranquil beauty of Kerala's Western Ghats. As you explore the verdant forests, listen to the symphony of birdsong, and breathe in the pure air, you will realize the significance of preserving such treasures for future generations. Silent Valley National Park beckons, ready to unveil its secrets and leave you with a profound appreciation for the wonders of the natural world.

An Adivasi community in Kerala has united to save the region’s dwindling hornbill population

A proposed hydroelectric dam, poaching and timber mafia threaten the bird population.

As you enter the Athirappilly-Vazhachal-Nelliyampathy forests in the southern Western Ghats, you’re welcomed with a heavy whooshing sound from the canopies of large trees. For a moment, you might mistake it for the sound of flying jets. This is the sound of the magnificent great hornbill, locally called Malamuzhakky, roughly translated to bird with a deep call that resonates in the mountains.

“There was a time when we poached them for meat and collected their eggs to add to herbal concoctions with questionable medicinal value. The practice ended completely in the past two decades and now we are undertaking the safekeeping of the birds and their nests,” said Senthil Kumar, a conservation activist hailing from the local tribal community, the Kadars.

“Our nine settlements of 174 families inside these forests had a dubious legacy as poachers and predators. But we are fast shrugging it off in our earnest bid to live in perfect harmony with nature and to safe keep these evergreen rainforests for future generations,” he said.

Francesco Veronesi/Flickr [Licensed under CC-BBY-SA-2.0]

As per the information available with Kerala Institute for Research Training and Development Studies of Scheduled Castes and Scheduled Tribes, Kadars are a “primitive tribe” from the forests of Palakkad and Thrissur districts of Kerala. In Malayalam, Kadar means forest dwellers. The tribe lives in small communities and used to practice a nomadic lifestyle and shifting cultivation, growing rice and millets. They also hunted birds, including hornbills, and small animals. There are only about 1,848 Kadars in Kerala now, as per the State Tribal Welfare Department. With their lives affected by modern amenities, the lifestyle of the Kadars has also changed with the times.

Forest land under threat

Around two years ago, the traditional Kadar village gatherings or gramasabhas had passed resolutions against the controversial Athirappilly hydroelectric project in their region. According to the environmental impact study by the Kerala State Electricity Board in 2002, the project was estimated to destroy the habitat of about 196 bird, 131 butterfly and 51 odonate species. The region’s animal population would be affected in addition to this.

What was significant about the resolution was its invoking of clauses of the Scheduled Tribes and Other Traditional Forest Dwellers (Recognition of Forest Rights) Act, 2006, which ensures community forest rights for tribals. It was reportedly the first time that central legislation aimed at tribal welfare was invoked for forest protection.

As per clauses in the forest rights act, no government or private project can be implemented in a forest area without the approval of the tribal gramasabhas. The 23-metre high dam was expected to submerge 104 hectares of forest land, apart from causing irreparable damages to the livelihood concerns of the local community.

“Despite our best efforts, the 163-MW hydroelectric project is still under active consideration of Kerala State Electricity Board and if it gets implemented, the first casualty will be the region’s rich hornbill population,” warned Geetha Vazhachal, chieftain of the tribal community and the first woman in this position among tribal communities in Kerala.

According to conservationists, the unique low-elevation riparian forest of Athirappilly-Vazhachal-Nelliyampathy is the only location where you can find all four south Indian species of hornbills – the great Indian hornbill or Buceros bicornis, Malabar pied hornbill or Anthracoceros coronatus, Indian grey hornbill or Ocyceros birostris, and Malabar grey hornbill or Ocyceros griseus. Incidentally, the great hornbill is the state bird of Kerala.

“This forest region is the only available nesting location for the highly endangered Malabar pied hornbills in Kerala. They are endemic to low elevation forests in limited locations of South Asia,” said Sheik Hydar Hussain, a researcher on the region’s hornbill population.

All species of hornbills have an umbilical relationship with rain forests. Forests undisturbed by humans are crucial for their survival and with forests being impacted, the hornbill population has dwindled too across the entire subcontinent in recent years. The birds nest in the natural hollows of high-canopy trees and remain extremely sensitive to disturbances. Their long bills may prevent them from binocular vision, but their sharp eyes and good hearing alert them to the slightest movement on the forest floor.

Local youth step up

Among those credited for making Kadars the sentinels of the hornbills of the region is KH Amitha Bachan, a researcher and consultant to Kerala Forest Department and the World Wildlife Fund-India Ecological Monitoring Programme, and the organisation under his leadership, Western Ghats Hornbill Foundation.

In the last two decades, WGHF partnered with the Kerala Forest Department to get 72 Kadar youth involved in the task of hornbill habitat protection. The initiative, which began with the protection of 57 nests, has now expanded to safekeeping 114 nests.

The youth keep close vigil against poaching by helping the forest department prevent illegal felling of nesting trees and prevent other youth from their community from joining poaching rings. They strengthen the forest habitat by engaging in wildfire prevention and planting trees. They also ensure human interference is restricted in these regions during the nesting season, which normally begins in December.

The Athirapilly waterfall. Credit: KK Najeeb/Mongabay.

The WGHF, which started as a small group of hornbill lovers in 1999, has now turned into a success story in the implementation of community-based conservation programmes. The foundation has conducted several scientific studies and research on the movement, food habits and habitat peculiarities of hornbills. In the process of protecting the hornbill population, it has made large scale interventions in protecting the otherwise precarious rainforests and improving living standards of Kadar tribes.

“There is a significant increase in the hornbill population in the last two decades. The number of nests has increased because of the lack of poaching. In the process of safekeeping the hornbills, we have identified 23 different species of nesting trees of which 60% are found only in the Western Ghats. Thirty percent of them are endangered,” said Bachan.

According to him, the river Chalakudy which flows through Athirapilly and Vazhachal is the lifeline for the bird population.

The tribal youngsters who work with the foundation have got training in monitoring and conserving the birds. They are also equipped to conduct scientific surveys and data collection. “Other than hornbill conservation, our focus is developing a system for long-term monitoring of the rainforest ecosystem. Channelising the traditional wisdom and efficiency of the Kadar youths, the foundation is now watching the changes in nesting of birds, changes in habitat and effects of deforestation. Through them, we are in the process of developing a long-term monitoring system to assess changes in the rainforest and that is crucial for future conservation activities,” says KT Anitha, who works with the foundation.

Who’s the predator?

According to the IUCN Red List, the great hornbill is evaluated as a “vulnerable” species while the Malabar pied hornbill is a “near threatened” one. The population of the Indian grey hornbill is stable and not decreasing. 

The Malabar grey hornbill is not globally threatened but it faces threats in the Western Ghats region, according to the WGHF. The two larger species, great hornbill and Malabar pied, are also placed under Schedule 1 of the Wildlife Protection Act, which affords the highest levels of protection.

Other than poaching, what had threatened hornbills in Athirappilly region was the powerful timber mafia that used to fell huge trees crucial for the survival of the birds. Now the tribal vigilantes are active against the mafia and no timber smuggling takes place in the forests.

While comparing with other rivers in Kerala, Chalakudy has the highest number of dams built as part of hydroelectrical projects. “The river has half a dozen dams and all of them are coming inside the Athirappilly-Vazhachal forests. Their construction and maintenance too had contributed immensely to the damages suffered already by the riparian ecosystem,” says SV Vinod, another conservationist.

“A healthy population of hornbills signifies a healthy ecosystem. So the hornbill conservation measures in the region are helping comprehensive protection of the environment of the Western Ghats stretch. Now the forest department and the foundation are also in the process of protecting and planting more trees of the seven species in which hornbills live,” said Bachan. 

The trees include Pali or Palaquium ellipticum, Elavu or Bombax ceiba, Thanni or Terminalia bellirica, Kalpayin or Dipterocarpus indicus, Kulavu or Kingiodendron pinnatum, Vellakil or Dysoxylum malabaricum, and Vellapayin or Vateria indica.

“Hornbills have no predators other than human beings. In the last two decades, the foundation has contributed enormously to make humans friendly with the bird and its natural habitat. The forest department has benefitted a lot through its intervention,” said S Muraleedharan, a retired divisional forest officer.

New threats

Because of the proximity to numerous plantations of tea, coffee and teak, the forest region is always under the threat of fire. In 2004, the forests had sustained severe devastation due to massive fires spread from plantations. Now the foundation and tribals work to avoid forest fires, most of which are human-made.

Hornbills at Athirapilly-Vazhachal. Credit: Rahana Habeeb/Mongabay

Displaced many times because of the construction of dams, Kadars have regularly faced the issues of habitat and livelihood destruction. They turned jobless and engaged in menial works in local shops and eateries near the Athirapilly waterfall, a major tourist destination in Kerala. Now, the conservation work ensures a fixed monthly income for the youth involved.

“What we are telling to the outer world is that no conservation would be possible without cooperation of the local community, especially the aborigines. Integrating their traditional wisdom with modern-day scientific approach would definitely yield results,” said Bachan, who hails from Kodungallur, a coastal town near Thrissur.

“In our process, we are treating the tribals as an inseparable part of the given ecosystem. They require equal attention along with animals, birds, trees and other constituents of the forest ecosystem. Economic support also crucial for tribals as that would ultimately turn them, protectors,” he said.

The hornbill guards are now trained in using cameras and operate GPS systems. They record the whole process of conservation. It is estimated that the region now has 184 hornbills and they are enjoying a safe habitat.

However, the recurring Kerala floods of the last two years had adverse effect on the hornbill population, with the floods washing away seven nests. “Climate change is firmly gripping our region too. It is posing a new threat to hornbills,” said Bachan.

(Source: Scroll)

Climate change takes a toll on Western Ghats

In Puthumala in Wayanad, another hamlet has been wiped out as a hillside has almost melted away, bringing down everything in its path: homes, people, tea estates.

Ten days after an entire hillock collapsed and buried a village of 44 families, giant excavators continue to scoop out mounds of earth in search of human remains to tally the count of missing persons. The stench of decay and medicinal spray to avert a disease outbreak hangs heavy; the remains recovered are taken to a village mosque for post-mortem examinations and identification.

In Puthumala in Wayanad, another hamlet has been wiped out as a hillside has almost melted away, bringing down everything in its path: homes, people, tea estates.

Both these disasters occurred in what were described as the “ecologically sensitive zones” of the Western Ghats by a committee headed by ecologist Madhav Gadgil in 2011, and again in 2013 by a high-level working group on the Western Ghats headed by former Indian Space Research Organisation (Isro) chief K Kasturirangan.

Survivors at relief camps in Mallapuram are mourning the loss of 28-year-old Vishnu, an army jawan and the pride of the neighbourhood, who along with his family was among the 59 buried in the landslide that struck at 8pm on August 8.

Experts say soil erosion and quarrying have affected the ‘ecologically sensitive’ hills of Western Ghats. (HT photo)

Most villagers haven’t come to terms with the horror they witnessed. “I have seen many floods but not an entire hill collapsing within moments. All I can say is the rain was very intense. I had already lost everything. Now I saw an entire village and kids like Vishnu disappear,” said Ammani, 79.

V Nandakumar, a scientist from the National Centre for Earth Sciences who visited both sites to assess what could have led to the disasters, said: “Two structural streams were completely missing in Kavalappara; they were probably built upon. There was also a lot of pit making for rubber plantation. The soil couldn’t contain and slowly slid away. In Puthumala, too, where the slope is nearly 2.5km long, I suspect there was something similar amiss which aggravated the slide.”

In Puthumala, a hamlet was washed away within minutes at around 4pm on August 8. “It was a beautiful village amid the tea plantations. The Gram Panchayat suspected that the area was landslide prone and asked villagers to evacuate the previous day. But some people stayed on. They were washed away. I have never seen such a horrifying tragedy,” said Abdul Rasheed from Meppadi village, who has volunteered to serve tea and refreshments to rescue workers.

The team recovered 12 bodies by Tuesday, August 20; more people are suspected to be trapped. Mujeeb, who works as a labourer, claims that large resorts built uphill above Puthumala may have eroded the soil over time. Though Wayanad is one of the most biodiversity rich regions of the Western Ghats, very little forest cover is visible in Vyithiri and Meppadi, where only plantations of tea, coffee, areca nut and rubber are seen.

Though not linked directly to the two big landslides, Pullikal village in Mallapuram is also an example of how quarrying has affected the fragile hills of the Western Ghats. Entire hillsides have been eaten away by granite quarries, with some being rapaciously mined from both slopes, leaving a narrow table on the top. “These (mining operations) are unlicensed and definitely have a major environmental impact,” added Nandakumar.

In Pullikal, at least eight quarries can be seen. “There are several more. It’s all quarry in Mallapuram. I have seen forested hillsides being completely denuded in less than a year. They use blasting to mine, which also makes the hills shaky. I fear for people here,” said Naushad M, a resident of Mallapuram, who does temporary jobs after recently returning from a 17-year stint in Kuwait.

Naushad is among very few people willing to talk about the quarries and sand mining, which is rampant on the coast.

A study by TV Sajeev and Alex CJ of the Kerala Forest Research Institute published in 2017 based on GIS mapping found there are 5,924 quarries in Kerala, 657 in Mallapuram, 509 in Kozhikode, and 161 in Wayanad. Thirteen are within a 1km radius of a protected area or reserve forest.

The two worst-affected regions also received exceptionally high rainfall between August 8 and August 14, according to data with India Meteorological Department (IMD). Mallapuram received 500% more rainfall (594.3mm) than the normal of 99.1mm. Wayanad received 401% excess rains, getting 707.5mm against a normal of 141.1mm.

“There was intense rainfall in a very short period and land use change may have aggravated the damage. So both factors are responsible. The water must have flowed down through the slopes and the soil must have been very wet. The Western Ghats and the Himalayan region are extremely vulnerable and need a careful strategy to mitigate such disasters,” said M Rajeevan, secretary, ministry of earth sciences.

(Source: HT)

Karnataka says ‘no’ to Kasturirangan report

The panel had suggested declaring 1,576 villages along the Western Ghats as ecologically-sensitive areas

The State government has told the Centre, two days before the deadline to submit recommendations on demarcation of ecologically-sensitive areas (ESAs), that it disagrees with the K. Kasturirangan-led panel report.

The panel had suggested declaring 1,576 villages along the Western Ghats as ESA, which would heighten conservation measures as well as place restrictions on certain construction activities that involve landscape changes.

In his letter on August 16 to C.K. Mishra, Secretary, Ministry of Environment, Forests and Climate Change (MoEF&CC), Sandeep Dave, Additional Chief Secretary, Forest Ecology and Environment Department, has said that “after extensive public consultations”, it was decided to place their objection on record. This follows a meeting with MoEF&CC officials held on April 11, 2018.

In his letter, Dr. Dave took exception to the demi-official letter enclosing the minutes of the meeting, which read: “The State government is requested to constitute a committee to look after the apprehensions and concerns of the State regarding the declaration of ESA of the Western Ghats region.” Dr. Dave took exception, stating that the State government has already “very clearly elucidated its position” on the matter and there was no need for a committee to be constituted. However, if the Centre were to form a committee, then the State government would extend cooperation. The State government’s response gains significance in the political controversy looming over the issue.

Panel had suggested declaring 1,576 villages along Western Ghats as ecologically-sensitive areas.  

Nalin Kumar Kateel, Dakshina Kannada MP, had said that if Karnataka did not respond by August 25, which is the deadline fixed by the Centre, then the demarcations recommended by Kasturirangan Committee would be deemed as final. He said that the Kerala government had already submitted its response in June. The Centre had sought the views of Karnataka, Kerala, Maharashtra, Goa, Gujarat, and Tamil Nadu on the ESAs for issuing final notification based on the report of the Kasturirangan Committee.

Interestingly, two reports on preserving the Western Ghats and stopping degradation — one submitted by Madhav Gadgil in 2011 and the later one submitted by Mr. Kasturirangan — have come into debate after the floods in Kerala and Kodagu.

The six states that share the range are trying their level best to bring down the area under the proposed ESAs in the Western Ghat ranges.

Meanwhile, former Forest Minister B. Ramanath Rai, had recently urged the Centre against implementing the recommendations of the report noting that, implementation of report will have an impact on 1576 villages in 20,668 sq km of Western Ghats region in Karnataka.

The Chief Minister H D Kumaraswamy assured of holding a high-level Committee meeting and discussion on the possibility of protecting the interest of people in the Western Ghats, at the same time conserving the ecology during his recent visit to Dharmastala.

(Source: The Hindu)

Illegal forest land acquisition behind Kerala floods, says ecologist Madhav Gadgil

The ecologist said extensive stone quarrying and mushrooming of high-rises as part of tourism, and illegal forest land acquisition by private parties are the major reasons for the recent floods in the state.

Ecologist Madhav Gadgil, founder of the Centre for Ecological Sciences at the Indian Institute of Science, Bengaluru, has described the floods in Kerala as a man-made disaster; a reaction to the illegal excavations, stone quarrying done over a decade.

In an interview to Hindustan Times, Gadgil said, “Irresponsible environmental policy is to be blamed for the recent floods and landslides in Kerala. Extensive stone quarrying and mushrooming of high-rises as part of tourism, and illegal forest land acquisition by private parties are the major reasons for the recent floods in the state.”

Most of the areas affected by this monsoon were once classified as ecologically-sensitive zones by the Western Ghats Ecology Expert Panel , also known as the Gadgil Committee, formed in 2010 the Centre.

Ecologist and founder of the Centre for Ecological Sciences Madhav Gadgil. (HT File Photo)

Accusing the successive Kerala governments of inaction, Gadgil said, “We had first submitted the report in 2011...we were in a sense boycotted by government officials as we had recommended them to stop illegal activities...”

Gadgil said that the report had very specifically pointed that if the stone quarrying was not stopped, it might eventually lead to natural calamities “like the one happening in the state today”. However, the establishments turned a deaf ear to the recommendations. According to Gadgil, a total of 1,650 excavators were deployed for stone quarrying and mining, of which only 150 were given permissions.

Expressing grief over the situation in Kerala, Gadgil said, “The government should at least now stop all the illegal stone quarrying activities after having faced the consequences. Although it is late, the government must act on the recommendations ...”

(Source: HT)